Through Arctic Lapland . sed pace you make a Zulu-like noise something like pop-pop, and if that doesnot have the desired effect you cut a stick and use itwith vigour. The horse shrugs his shoulders andquickens; it is all in the days work. When youwant him to stop, you say pr-r-r-mph! just as youdo in Denmark. The horse of the post-road is not accustomed toatmospheric warmth, and sweats on small these circumstances he must not be our first stage out of Kittila—it was one of thelongest, by the way, being twenty-two kilometres tothe change-house—the sun above us blaz


Through Arctic Lapland . sed pace you make a Zulu-like noise something like pop-pop, and if that doesnot have the desired effect you cut a stick and use itwith vigour. The horse shrugs his shoulders andquickens; it is all in the days work. When youwant him to stop, you say pr-r-r-mph! just as youdo in Denmark. The horse of the post-road is not accustomed toatmospheric warmth, and sweats on small these circumstances he must not be our first stage out of Kittila—it was one of thelongest, by the way, being twenty-two kilometres tothe change-house—the sun above us blazed with trueArctic heat and fervour, and the pace could not bepushed beyond the steadiest of jogs. When wepulled up in the grassy courtyard of Eantatalo atthe end of this first stage, the man in attendancedrew bucket after bucket of icy water from the well,and sluiced it over the horses loins. It seemed acrude sort of proceeding, but one supposed they knewtheir business ; and, besides, it was their horse. II ^w^^ i f. 262 Through Arctic Lapland In this same courtyard at Rantatalo the score ofpeople who made the village were collected to amusethemselves with one of their number who had contrivedto get drunk. How he had procured the liquor inthis Prohibition State was a mystery apparently tothem as much as it was to us. But drunk he was,and as specimens in that condition were rare, theymade the most of him before he was sober again. From out of this jeering crowd round the drunkardthere came to us a battered, shaggy, half-naked, wreckof a man, who spoke leetle AngHsh. He had beenborn in Eantatalo, and had tired of it; he had trampedto the coast, and had worked across the ocean ; he haddrifted on to a railroad somewhere in America, thoughhe did not know whether it was in California orthe Carolinas, and had there worked in a line-gangtill home-sickness and body-sickness drove him backto Finland again. Poor wretch, it did not requiremuch skill to diagnose consumption as his ailm


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