. Coastal Geography Conference. Coasts. A PRELIMINARY INVESTIGATION OF SHIFTING BEACH PROFILES Henry C. Stetson Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Contract Nonr-1254(00) Task NR 388-018 The purpose of this investigation is to map the changes in the beach profile throughout a twelve month's period, choosing portions of the Massachusetts coast where a variety of beach environments could be found. The exposure, that is intensity of wind and sea conditions, the abundance of supply of sand and the proximity to the source, the slope of the offshore bottom and the depth of water are all factors tha
. Coastal Geography Conference. Coasts. A PRELIMINARY INVESTIGATION OF SHIFTING BEACH PROFILES Henry C. Stetson Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Contract Nonr-1254(00) Task NR 388-018 The purpose of this investigation is to map the changes in the beach profile throughout a twelve month's period, choosing portions of the Massachusetts coast where a variety of beach environments could be found. The exposure, that is intensity of wind and sea conditions, the abundance of supply of sand and the proximity to the source, the slope of the offshore bottom and the depth of water are all factors that exercise a control over the resultant form. Furthermore, the rapidity with which a beach changes shape, and the shape which it assumes are likewise controlled by them. For this investigation the terminology adopted by the Beach Erosion Board is used and the term beach profile includes the backshore, the foreshore, and the offshore portions. They must be considered as a unit. The entire beach profile is mobile and varies constantly. Strictly speaking, observations are only good for the time when they are taken. It is becoming apparent, however, that certain broad patterns are repetitive, that these patterns may be seasonal, and that by continuous observations on selected traverses, certain principles can be established concerning the responses of different types of beaches to the various forces which control their form. On most beaches at any given time there will be features which are hold-overs from a previous set of conditions and which are in the course of being modified. Spot observations of any given beach are, therefore, of limited value and only by a continuous series can the evolutionary sequence be Figure 1. Locations of the traverses. 57. Please note that these images are extracted from scanned page images that may have been digitally enhanced for readability - coloration and appearance of these illustrations may not perfectly resemble the original work.
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookcollectionbiodiversity, booksubjectcoasts
