. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . hoodworn so many years by English, French, andAmerican women has somewhat the same effect onwomens countenances ; it gives a uniformity of se-verity. It is difficult for a face to be pretty andgay under this gloomy hood. This French hoodis plainly a development of the head-rail, which wassimply an unshaped oblong strip of linen or stuffthrown over the head, and with the ends twistedlightly round the neck or tied loosely under the chinwith whatever grace or elegance the individual wearerpossessed. Varying slightly from reign to reign, yet n


. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . hoodworn so many years by English, French, andAmerican women has somewhat the same effect onwomens countenances ; it gives a uniformity of se-verity. It is difficult for a face to be pretty andgay under this gloomy hood. This French hoodis plainly a development of the head-rail, which wassimply an unshaped oblong strip of linen or stuffthrown over the head, and with the ends twistedlightly round the neck or tied loosely under the chinwith whatever grace or elegance the individual wearerpossessed. Varying slightly from reign to reign, yet nevergreatly changed, this sombre plain French hoodwas worn literally for centuries. It was deemed sograve and dignified a head-covering that, in the reignof Edward III, women of ill carriage were forbiddenthe wearing of it. 239 40 Two Centuries of Costume In the year 1472 Raye Hoods, that is, stripedhoods, were enjoined in several English towns as thedistinctive wear of women of ill character. And inFrance this black hood was under restriction ; only. Gulielma Penn. ladies of the French court were permitted to wearvelvet hoods, and only women of station and dig-nity, black hoods. This black hood was dignified in allegorical litera-ture as the venerable hood, and was ever chosen The Venerable Hood 241 by limners to cover the head of any woman of ageor dignity who was to be depicted. In the Ladies Dictionary a hood is denned thus: A Dutch attire covering the head, face and all thebody. And the long cloak with this draped hood,which must have been much like the Shaker cloakof to-day, seems to have been deemed a Dutch gar-ment. It was warm and comfortable enough to beadopted readily by the English Pilgrims in had come to England, however, in an earlier cen-tury. Of Ellinor Rummin, the alewife, Skelton wroteabout the year 1500 : — A Hake of Lincoln greeneIt had been hers I weeneMore than fortye yeareAnd soe it doth appeareAnd the greene bare thredsLooked like sere wedes


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