Hungary and the Hungarians . mountains, he distinctly evidenced his Magyar is superstitious. It was the Tree-Spiritwhich disturbed him, for he beheld the lighted fires onthe marshes and shuddered. Mine eyes were closedthat I could not see. They told me a few days afterthat they still worshipped the sun in this lonely region,and that even good Catholics will cross themselveswhen a shadow passes athwart the sunshine. In themorning I searched in vain for some trace of glacialformation on the Magas Tatra. It was not adisappointment, for the compensations of my environ-ment were too many t


Hungary and the Hungarians . mountains, he distinctly evidenced his Magyar is superstitious. It was the Tree-Spiritwhich disturbed him, for he beheld the lighted fires onthe marshes and shuddered. Mine eyes were closedthat I could not see. They told me a few days afterthat they still worshipped the sun in this lonely region,and that even good Catholics will cross themselveswhen a shadow passes athwart the sunshine. In themorning I searched in vain for some trace of glacialformation on the Magas Tatra. It was not adisappointment, for the compensations of my environ-ment were too many to admit of that. It is like, yetunlike some parts of the Tyrol, and when snowboundin the winter equal to the best. But that subtlesomething you instantly perceive at Tatra Lomnitz iswanting both in Bavaria and Switzerland. Languageundoubtedly has something to do with this. BothMagyar and Slovak seem to blend more harmoniouslywith the wild scenery than guttural German. Thesense of inactivity, the absence of strenuousness, and. THE CARPATHIANS AND ITS PEOPLES 43 the presence of a patriotic acquiescence were alladjuncts to the elusive compound I describe as theMagyar spirit. Psychic forces unleashed aboundhere. There is no feeling of township, no hustlingpedestrianism, no violating sound save that of thevillage smithy. Tatra Lomnltz, therefore, is not for those who cannotendure being without the noisy emblems of moderncivihsation. You may hunt, walk, climb, fish, drive,more than these are not promised. But I havewritten too hastily : there is a race meeting, in summer,tennis courts, and soon will be a golf ground, whilstwinter brings its full meed of outdoor sports. It is thebeauty and grandeur of the situation which appealsand which endures. Driving back from Lake Csorba,which lies 1387 metres above the sea-level, one mayoften catch a glimpse of some furry animal capable ofquickening the pulse of the hunter. Within a fewmiles of Tatra Lomnitz a fine chamois shot acrossour path on


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