Cotton weaving: its development, principles, and practice . serve all 136 shows a patent leno machine, a recent is a valuable machine where leno or lace effects arewanted. It may, therefore, be described at more leno or gauze weave has been sufficiently explainedin a previous chapter, and therefore need not be repeated Fig. 134, here. The machine, of which the illustration is a repre-sentation, is used for weaving leno or gauze fabrics with4 threads per dent of the reed. By casting out the neces-sary hooks it can also be used with 3 threads per


Cotton weaving: its development, principles, and practice . serve all 136 shows a patent leno machine, a recent is a valuable machine where leno or lace effects arewanted. It may, therefore, be described at more leno or gauze weave has been sufficiently explainedin a previous chapter, and therefore need not be repeated Fig. 134, here. The machine, of which the illustration is a repre-sentation, is used for weaving leno or gauze fabrics with4 threads per dent of the reed. By casting out the neces-sary hooks it can also be used with 3 threads per machine has 612 hooks, 51 rows, 12 in a row, besidesselvage holes. Of these, 100 hooks are allotted to the 206 COTTON WEAVING. doup harness ; 400 for the middle or figure harness ; and100 for the warp-easing or slackening harness. Thisdisposes of 600 hooks and leaves a spare row. With these600 hooks it is only necessary to use 500 needles, as thoseallotted to actuate the doup hooks also each operate awarp-slackening hook. The double duty these needles. Fig. 135. perform is a great advantage, because a doup warp threadcan never be shedded without at the same time beingslackened to permit it to make its three-quarter twistaround its fellow thread. Thus both strain upon the warpand the doup harness is perfectly avoided. Each dent ofthe doup and the slackening harness is worked indepen- THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE SHEDDING MOTION. 207 dently, so that several styles or patterns of leno can bemade in the same fabric if desired. There are two griffesused in this machine, the original one to lift the doup andfiguring harness, and a small one to lift the slackeningharness. The first is lifted by the ordinary lever arrange-


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, bookdecade1890, bookpublisheretcet, bookyear1895