Hungary and the Hungarians . ts intellectual atmosphere of calm, a distinct in-centive to freedom, with an unfortunate tendency towardsprocrastination. Here hurry is unknown. Everythingbespeaks leisure. Churches meet you at every streets, cobbled it is true, and wide paths providecontinual opportunity for gossip. One is never jostled,for the big world lies a long way away. Echoes of itarrive from time to time, and then groups multiply inthe streets, and the inhabitants of the kdvihdz staylonger over their coffee. That is all. The true spiritof a University town is ever present. Dont


Hungary and the Hungarians . ts intellectual atmosphere of calm, a distinct in-centive to freedom, with an unfortunate tendency towardsprocrastination. Here hurry is unknown. Everythingbespeaks leisure. Churches meet you at every streets, cobbled it is true, and wide paths providecontinual opportunity for gossip. One is never jostled,for the big world lies a long way away. Echoes of itarrive from time to time, and then groups multiply inthe streets, and the inhabitants of the kdvihdz staylonger over their coffee. That is all. The true spiritof a University town is ever present. Dont imagineall this means an absence of life. On the contrary, itindicates the presence of life. Restless activity andnoise do not necessarily imply life. Mingled withthe air of study is the necessary compound of gaiety,one aiding the other. Social life is rendered morevaluable by reason of intellectual seriousness, and hereconversation takes a less physical form. Extremesare visible, but, like the hurried grouping of colours in. %M TRANSYLVANIAN PEASANTS, KOLOZSVAR TRANSYLVANIA AND TRANSYLVANIANS 183 a peasants costume, they do not jar upon one. Muchis accepted as inevitable, and standards differ. Walkingone day in the big square, I was struck by the easeand unconcern of a peasant changing his socks onthe edge of the kerb. For the care he took over histask he might have been within the sacred precinctsof his cottage. This was not mere ignorance of custom,nor desire to combat custom. Neither was it anevidence of stupidity or lawlessness, but a sense offreedom, and the consciousness that by such a cleanlyact none were being outraged. Acts such as thesemust not be misinterpreted. The geographical situa-tion of Kolozsvar itself, surrounded as it is by highmountains, adds a charm and a unique consciousnessof literary safety which no other town possesses. It isa haven of rest for writers, rest in order to work andworship, with all the compilations of nature surroundingone, and providing


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