. Travels and politics in the Near East. nt to the summit of thepass. A pleasing landscape, sprinkled here and there witha Bogomile tomb, lies on the other side, and we are soonat the picturesque little town of Dolnji Vakuf, with itsancient clock-tower and old bridge. From this pointone line goes off to Bugojno, from which place a dili-gence runs through the beautiful valley of the Rama toJablanica, while another traverses the equally charmingvalley of the Vrbas, and has its present terminus at old Hungarian days the Keglevic family, to which thedefence of Jajce was entrusted, command
. Travels and politics in the Near East. nt to the summit of thepass. A pleasing landscape, sprinkled here and there witha Bogomile tomb, lies on the other side, and we are soonat the picturesque little town of Dolnji Vakuf, with itsancient clock-tower and old bridge. From this pointone line goes off to Bugojno, from which place a dili-gence runs through the beautiful valley of the Rama toJablanica, while another traverses the equally charmingvalley of the Vrbas, and has its present terminus at old Hungarian days the Keglevic family, to which thedefence of Jajce was entrusted, commanded this valleywith a castle, the ruins of which have survived the Turkishconquest. But nowadays this region is of small strategicimportance, and since 1895 there have been no soldiersat Jajce. Of all the towns in the Near East few have such abeautiful position as this last capital of the Bosnian king- 157 Travels and Politics dom, where the hist native ruler of Bosnia sought in vaina refuge from the invading Turk ; where for two genera-. JAJCK : THE OLD BOSXIAX CAPITAL. tions more a Hungarian garrison held out, as the farthestoutpost of Christendom ; where, according to the locallegend, the Evangelist Luke is said to have been buried 158 in the Near East beneath the Italian tower that bears his name ; and whereperhaps the finest waterfall in Europe crashes in thunderfrom the rocks on which the town is perched into aswiftly running stream below. Round the egg-shapedcastle hill, from which the place derives its name of the little egg, rather than from a fancied resemblance tothe Castel dell Uovo at Naples, cluster the black andwhite wooden houses, embowered in the foliage of thewalnut-trees, while the slim Italian campanile of theruined church looks as if it were out of place in soOriental a setting. Down in the bazar, outside the oldgate, the Bosnian peasants, in their white clothes with redturbans wound round their heads, are chaffering over thewares. Stalwart Dalmatians, in sh
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, bookdecade1890, booksubjecteasternquestionbalka