Merz's practical cutting system for ladies' jackets and cloaks .. . nd lengthen thisy> inch at the bottom point, 46. Pivot at H and sweep fromcenter length line to 45 and to 47. Draw the bijtloiu lines from44 to 45 and from 47 to 46. Trace the whole pattern off upon another uiece of paperand use the yokes to draft the sleeve. It is preferable to drafttlie sleeve upon the same draft with a different colored the line 27 through 16 straight down to 56 and from 27to 61 level with the bust line and continue the whole sleevedraft as given in Diagram XII. Take the back yoke and ])laced


Merz's practical cutting system for ladies' jackets and cloaks .. . nd lengthen thisy> inch at the bottom point, 46. Pivot at H and sweep fromcenter length line to 45 and to 47. Draw the bijtloiu lines from44 to 45 and from 47 to 46. Trace the whole pattern off upon another uiece of paperand use the yokes to draft the sleeve. It is preferable to drafttlie sleeve upon the same draft with a different colored the line 27 through 16 straight down to 56 and from 27to 61 level with the bust line and continue the whole sleevedraft as given in Diagram XII. Take the back yoke and ])laced and 35 to the top sleeve circular line and continue the sleevewith the yoke line, d, to 26, 5, 4, 64, 65, and to 66, as repre-sented. Place the front yoke to the circular line, 60, so from .? is ^ inch apart, and draw the line from 64 to 23, 38,and to s where the sleeve is to be reconnected, as the sleeve at 64, as the balance of the coat dejicnds onthai line, as well as on the underarm seam of (he co;it. For Ladies Jackets and Cloaks. 47. Diagram XVIll. 48 Merzs Practical Cutting System Diagram SLEEVE. As center of sleeve and center of slioulder liarmonize inthis kind of sleeve, transfer the shoulder seam carefully to thecenter, as in Diagram XVIII. On this draft the overarmsleeve is ^/n, of the armhole width smaller and the overarmpoint approaches to the underarm sleeve, point 63, and the cen-ter point, 62, on this draft is from 60 to 63, instead of 60 and61. Draw perpendicular line from 62 to 64 and up to 65. Pivotat center point, 64, and draw circular line from 60 through 63to 67 and continue the sleeve draft the same as in DiagramXII, only the overarm sleeve on this draft is Vio width smaller;for this, curve the line from 67 to the elbow to the outside ofthe guide line. Lay a piece of paper underneath and trace off the linesfrom d to 33, to 4, to 35, and to d; cut it out, and lay theshoulder line to the sleeve center line,.64 and 65, the


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1910, bookidmerzspractic, bookyear1911