Trans-Himalaya; discoveries and adventures in Tibet . way from the shore—indeed, it was really toostrong for our sail and mast, but it took us on and doubledour pace. We had been sheltered under the hills, butwhen we were a few minutes from the beach the lakebecame uncomfortably rough. But it was of little con-sequence, for we sailed with the waves and took in nowater. The men, too, were more alive than on the firstnocturnal voyage. They had evidently made up theirminds to reach their destination before night, and theyrowed like galley-slaves with the whip hanging overthem ; they seemed to run
Trans-Himalaya; discoveries and adventures in Tibet . way from the shore—indeed, it was really toostrong for our sail and mast, but it took us on and doubledour pace. We had been sheltered under the hills, butwhen we were a few minutes from the beach the lakebecame uncomfortably rough. But it was of little con-sequence, for we sailed with the waves and took in nowater. The men, too, were more alive than on the firstnocturnal voyage. They had evidently made up theirminds to reach their destination before night, and theyrowed like galley-slaves with the whip hanging overthem ; they seemed to run a race with the west wind, andtry to get away before the waves rose too madly. Thewater hissed and foamed round the boat, and bubbledin the wake as when butter is browned in a pan, andbeneath us the lake boiled up. It was a fine voyage aswe rocked, spinning rapidly over the holy waves, Shukkur Alis refrain to the strokes of the oars is now Ya pate, parvardigar Rabel, alehmin or Illallah, whileRehim Ali responds to the cry of his comrade with Haap. xLv MORE LAKE VOYAGES 125 —the p jerked out quickly and loudly like an explosion—and with the refrain lllallah, or Svalallah. TheArabic words are, as usual in Ladak, much corrupted, butthey lighten the work, and after Shukkur Ali had yelledthem out thirty-five times in a minute for nine hours asloudly as his vocal cords would let him, he was dreadfullyhoarse in the evening. Then the soundings were 131, 171, 171, 177, 177, 185,187, and 177. Out beyond the abrasion terrace and itsrather steep escarpment, the lake bottom is practicallylevel. Hanging cloud fringes show that rain is pouringdown in torrents on most sides, but we escape excellent boatmen row twice as fast as on the firstnight, but it is impossible to induce them to row in I loose the rudder a moment, my boat falls off to thenorth or south instead of making east, where camp, lies. If it is dark before we reach the shore, our menare to light a pile
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