. The spell of Italy. ot translucent, clear and cold. A few steps broughtus deeper down the nave and we stood beneath thosemarvellous groined arches, where the lovely frescoesof Martini and the loftier conceptions of Giotto en-compassed us with their celestial radiance. It wasa breathless moment, and for my own part I caredlittle to break into the sensation which the place as awhole made upon me, by a study of details. Forthat day the ensemble and the frescoes of the highaltar sufficed. Filia joined a little company ofpilgrims to the crypt, to the tomb of St. Francis,while I met Francis at Gio
. The spell of Italy. ot translucent, clear and cold. A few steps broughtus deeper down the nave and we stood beneath thosemarvellous groined arches, where the lovely frescoesof Martini and the loftier conceptions of Giotto en-compassed us with their celestial radiance. It wasa breathless moment, and for my own part I caredlittle to break into the sensation which the place as awhole made upon me, by a study of details. Forthat day the ensemble and the frescoes of the highaltar sufficed. Filia joined a little company ofpilgrims to the crypt, to the tomb of St. Francis,while I met Francis at Giottos hand, living andwedded in rainbow glories to Poverty, Chastity,and Obedience amid ranks of fair-haired Upper Church could not be even thought ofuntil to-morrow. What was one visit, with fiftyGiottos to learn and love, and this noble Madonnaof Cimabue, among all Mater Dolorosas the noblestin Ruskins estimation? When we first entered the sunshine of the earlyafternoon had illuminated the whole place, and. ** The Little City Vowed to God 243 brought out from their lui-king-places many hiddenbeauties which we never saw again in equal dis-tinctness. But as the day waned the Hght dimmed,and our eyes grew tired with searching out of toomuch loveHness. We turned gladly into the Cappelladi San Antonio from which access is gained to theancient Campo Santo. Here double cloisters sur-round the tiny graveyard over which cypresses standwatchful. The place was not gloomy, and in itshumihty spoke of il Poverello more distinctly to methan the rich and myriad-formed symbolism of thechurch built in his name. The church itself, its origin and the circumstancesunder which it was built, assumed a vital interest,after we had given ourselves over to the indescribableinfluence which Assisi and its associations exercisewhen in their presence. Two years after the deathof Francis, Gregory IX came in person to Assisi,July 26, 1228, to preside over the ceremonies ofcanonization and to lay th
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