. The Burton Holmes lectures;. been asked, the youthful art-dealercalmly folded the proffered bill, tore it neatly into two equalparts, pocketed the one and handed back the other. Hemet our protestations with the exclamation, that half of tenwas live, and that we had therefore received the properchange ; nor had we any difficulty in disposing of themutilated half-bill. In fact, I never again saw ten drachmabills intact, for before they have been long in circulation theyare cut up into fives. Many travelers object because atthe big hotels the charges are not made in the money of thecountry. To
. The Burton Holmes lectures;. been asked, the youthful art-dealercalmly folded the proffered bill, tore it neatly into two equalparts, pocketed the one and handed back the other. Hemet our protestations with the exclamation, that half of tenwas live, and that we had therefore received the properchange ; nor had we any difficulty in disposing of themutilated half-bill. In fact, I never again saw ten drachmabills intact, for before they have been long in circulation theyare cut up into fives. Many travelers object because atthe big hotels the charges are not made in the money of thecountry. To which objection the proprietors reply thatthere are other hotels and restaurants where any kind ofmoney will be welcome, and where Greek accommodationswill be given for Greek money. The competition betweenthe native establishments, called Xenodochion, and thepretentious hotels managed on French and Swiss lines is not very keen. I think onereason why so few trav-elers visit the interiorof Greece is that theguide-books tell them. THE OLYMPIAN GAMES 27 the Xenodochion of Athens is the type of those whichthe pilgrims in the provinces will be compelled to put upwith ; and we can pardon those whose enthusiasm to visitclassic sites does not conquer their aversion to a bill-of-farelike the one offered by the native cuisine. Dont ask me todescribe it ; the mixture which the Greek chef ladles out tohungry guests is the most impersonal thing I ever modern Greeks, especially in cities, are abandoningtheir picturesque but ridiculously complicated costume infavor of that cheap, ready-made attire which is supposedto be the badge of civilization. This shoddy modern dress,invariably ill-fitting, robs them of all dignity, and successfullyconceals whatever of grace and beauty they have inheritedfrom the Greeks of other days. But if in the streets of
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, booksubjectvoyages, bookyear1901
