. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography SMOOTHED SEA FLOOR BASIC PROFILE) FIGURE 29. Superimposed profiles of the inner shorejace-connected ridge at False Cape, Virginia. From McHone (1972). reverse asymmetry tends to prevail further seaward. En- velopes of profiles indicate that, as in the case of their small-scale break-point counterparts, ridges built to a height of approximately one-third water depth, at which point wave agitation is sufficiently intense to preclude further growth. Th
. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography SMOOTHED SEA FLOOR BASIC PROFILE) FIGURE 29. Superimposed profiles of the inner shorejace-connected ridge at False Cape, Virginia. From McHone (1972). reverse asymmetry tends to prevail further seaward. En- velopes of profiles indicate that, as in the case of their small-scale break-point counterparts, ridges built to a height of approximately one-third water depth, at which point wave agitation is sufficiently intense to preclude further growth. The troughs between the ridges and the shoreface are similarly excavated to one-third of water depth below the smoothed profile (McHone, 1972); see Fig. 29. At the False Cape Ridge Field, Virginia (McHone, 1972; Swift et al., in press), analysis of the wave climate suggests that waves are capable of breaking on some part of the inner ridge crest about 10% of the time. As a consequence of their oblique orientation and varying crestal depth, such ridges may utilize energy from a relatively broad spectrum of wavelengths. As wave-built bars, however, the low-angle ridges are anomalous. They are much larger than surf zone bars and their oblique orientation is more nearly parallel to the direction of wave approach than normal to it. The ridges may be primarily a response to a downwelling coastal jet that comprises the coastal margin of the storm flow field (see p. 275), although storm wave action is clearly a complementary mechanism. At False Cape, Virginia, a 28 hour current-meter station revealed a steady southward and offshore flow on the order of 15 cm/sec at a distance of 8 cm off the bottom, subsequent to the passage of a cold front with winds in excess of 25 knots (Fig. 30). During this period, however, the anchored observation vessel maintained a wake trending southward and shoreward. The inferred structure of the coastal flow field during the observation period is pre-. FIGURE
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