. The awakening of China . -tars, forsook his capital in Shensi and followed thestream down almost to the sea, braving the quicksandsand the floods rather than face those terrible , in the Sung period, it was the seat of governmentfor a century and a half. The safest refiige for a fugitive court which, onceestablished there, has no reason to fear attack by seaor river, it is somewhat strange that in 1900 theEmpress Dowager did not direct her steps towardKai-fung-fu, instead of escaping to Si-ngan. Being,however, herself a Tartar, she might have been expectedto act in a way contrary t


. The awakening of China . -tars, forsook his capital in Shensi and followed thestream down almost to the sea, braving the quicksandsand the floods rather than face those terrible , in the Sung period, it was the seat of governmentfor a century and a half. The safest refiige for a fugitive court which, onceestablished there, has no reason to fear attack by seaor river, it is somewhat strange that in 1900 theEmpress Dowager did not direct her steps towardKai-fung-fu, instead of escaping to Si-ngan. Being,however, herself a Tartar, she might have been expectedto act in a way contrary to precedents set by Chinesedynasties. Obviously, she chose the latter as a placeof refuge because it lay near the borders of is noteworthy that a loyal governor of Honan atthat very time prepared a palace for her accommo-dation in Kai-fung-fu, and when the court was invitedto return to Peking, he implored her not to risk herselfin the northern capital. Honan is a province rich in agriculttiral, and probably m^t*. A TOMB OF CONFUCIUS AT KEWFOW PROVINCE OF HONAN 43 in mineral, resources, but it has no outlet in the way oftrade. What a boon ihis railway is destined to be, asa channel of communication with neighbotiringprovinces! I crossed the Yellow River in 1866, but there wasthen no bridge of any kind. Two-thirds of a mile inwidth, with a furious current, the management of theferry-boat was no easy task. On .that occasion anobject which presented stronger attractions than thiswonderful bridge had drawn me to Kai-fung-fu— of Jews, a fragment of the Lost Tribes ofIsrael. As mentioned in a previous chapter, I hadcome by land over the very track now followed bythe railroad, but under conditions in strong contrastwith the luxuries of a railway carriage—Alone,unfriended, solitary, slow, I had made my waypainfully, shifting from horse to cart, and sometimescompelled by the narrowness of a path to descend to awheelbarrow. How I longed for the advent of the ironhor


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