Across South America; an account of a journey from Buenos Aires to Lima by way of Potosí, with notes on Brazil, Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, and Peru . was spent in unloading her cargo;and we did not sail until eight oclock that evening. The night was wet and chilly. Thunder-stormsand squalls made the lake quite rough and we hadthe usual discomforts. The storm and the late startkept us from reaching Puno before 11 A. M. Theregular train had gone, but a special was made upfor the convenience of the Arequipa passengers andwe reached Juliaca at one oclock. Here I bade thelast of the delegados farew
Across South America; an account of a journey from Buenos Aires to Lima by way of Potosí, with notes on Brazil, Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, and Peru . was spent in unloading her cargo;and we did not sail until eight oclock that evening. The night was wet and chilly. Thunder-stormsand squalls made the lake quite rough and we hadthe usual discomforts. The storm and the late startkept us from reaching Puno before 11 A. M. Theregular train had gone, but a special was made upfor the convenience of the Arequipa passengers andwe reached Juliaca at one oclock. Here I bade thelast of the delegados farewell and asked for the trainfor Cuzco. It had left several hours before and thenext train was due to leave day after to-morrow! Thanks to the courtesy of the railway officials,however, a special train, consisting of half a dozenfreight cars and a small passenger coach, was madeup to take me as far as Checcacupe. The coach which had been put at my disposalwas old and very small, about the size of an ancientbob-tailed horse-car. Moreover, it was alreadyoccupied by a dozen native passengers who, likemyself, had missed the regular train. As usual,. CUZCO 255 they had no end of bags, bundles, and boxes. Therewas hardly room to squeeze inside the door. Un-doubtedly they had better right on the train thanI did, for they had paid their fares while I was ridingon a pass. So I relinquished any claim to the coachand took the firemans seat in the locomotive, whichafforded me a better opportunity of seeing thecountry. We pulled out of Juliaca shortly after two oclockand rattled along over the plains north of I saw for the first time llamas tied to all the thousands of llamas seen in Bolivia, I donot remember one that was tied. But I soon foundthat the practice is customary in and around Cuzco. The inquisitive Indians who gathered at the sta-tions to stare at our train while the engine was get-ting a drink of water were mild-mannered is the northern limi
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