. New China and old : personal recollections and observations of thirty years. choed amongst the hills, through which thewinding stream was now leading us. The storm, nownear, now far off, continued for twelve hours withoutintermission, accompanied by torrents of rain. Thestream began to swell, and the strong current seriouslyimpeded our progress. I had hoped to reach the cityby noon, and to have been on my way to the Christianvillagers in the early afternoon. The sun, however,fast westering, was just looking for the first time frombehind the thunder-cloud, when the city at length camein sight
. New China and old : personal recollections and observations of thirty years. choed amongst the hills, through which thewinding stream was now leading us. The storm, nownear, now far off, continued for twelve hours withoutintermission, accompanied by torrents of rain. Thestream began to swell, and the strong current seriouslyimpeded our progress. I had hoped to reach the cityby noon, and to have been on my way to the Christianvillagers in the early afternoon. The sun, however,fast westering, was just looking for the first time frombehind the thunder-cloud, when the city at length camein sight. We took some time in mooring the boat, andI then landed, and hastened with all speed into the cityto leave my card at the Yamun, and to pay my respectsto the great man ; so as to start if possible at once, andenter the hills by night, as the rain had ceased, andthe paths were, we hoped, fairly passable. My call wasexpected, and I was received at the Yamun gates, andconducted through a short covered ^\ ay to the reception-hall. The gates of a Chinese official residence are. The Yainiin. 143 adorned with large paintings of human figures in fullmilitary costume. Outside the main gates, and oppositeto them, stands a dead wall, with a high palisade runningfrom the ends of the wall to the main building. Thispalisade consists of thick movable posts fitted intosockets. There seems to be a right of way for footpassengers through the open gates of the palisade andpast the Yamun door ; but it is customary for equestriansto dismount, and to lead their horses round at the backof the dead wall. This wall is adorned with rough andgrotesque frescoes; dragons or gigantic birds beingportrayed in blue and green and red colours. Thewall and the large wooden screens which are alwaysmet with inside the entrance-doors of Yamuns or housesof any pretension are of geomantic significance, wardingoff evil influences from the dwelling. Near the entrance-gate, under the cover of the porch, stands the magi
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