The new dressmaker; with complete and fully illustrated instructions on every point connected with sewing, dressmaking and tailoring, from the actual stitches to the cutting, making, altering, mending, and cleaning of clothes for ladies, misses, girls, children, infants, men and boys . as to how to buy that particular ])attern. that is, whether it should be bought by the bust or hip measure, etc. Fol-low these instructions in buying your pattern. Skirt patterns should be bought by the hip measure. (Ills. 4 and 5.) If the waist is small in proportion to the hips, it is an easy matter to take in


The new dressmaker; with complete and fully illustrated instructions on every point connected with sewing, dressmaking and tailoring, from the actual stitches to the cutting, making, altering, mending, and cleaning of clothes for ladies, misses, girls, children, infants, men and boys . as to how to buy that particular ])attern. that is, whether it should be bought by the bust or hip measure, etc. Fol-low these instructions in buying your pattern. Skirt patterns should be bought by the hip measure. (Ills. 4 and 5.) If the waist is small in proportion to the hips, it is an easy matter to take in the skirt a little at the top. If the pattern is small for you at the waist—and this will happen only in rare cases— a slight allowance can be made for the necessary waist size when you cut out your material. A sldrt pattern should never be ordered with a hip measure smaller than that of the figure to be a plaited skirt is too large or too small at the waist, the plaits should be made either deeper or shallower to fit the belt. III. 6. The Underarm Measure If the skirt is gathered at the top, the gathers simply ;s Taken frorri One Incli Below , ,,,-,, \ . J , trie Armpit to the Length the need to be drawn a little closer or let out as much as Dress is to be Worn. 12 THL NLW DRL55MAKLR needed. If the skirt is plain at the topand gored, each seam should be taken inso as to make the alteration as small aspossible in each place, sloping it gradu-ally to nothing at the hipline. Or thewaist size can be increased as illustratedand explained in Chapter 5 AlteringSkirt Patterns. Page 28. In a circular skirt with one or more darts,the waist size can be made smaller or largerby taking in or letting out the darts. In a circular skirt without darts, if onlya small reduction is required, it may oftenbe eased into the belt. If the waist needsto be made very much smaller it may benecessary to make a small dart at each hip. If the waistline needs to be made largerit can be done b


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1920, booksubjectsewing, bookyear1921