Travels in the Atlas and Southern Morocco, a narrative of exploration . on by Ben Daoud, the governor of the town,was of the most inhospitable character, though we suc-ceeded in getting a commodious house in the heart ofthe Medinah. In some respects this was a desirablestate of matters, as we were left quite free to moveabout as we pleased, unwatched and unhampered bytroublesome soldiers. There were various reasons for taking up our quar-ters in the city at this time. was still unfit fortravelling, the heat had gradually become unbearable,and finally, we wanted some stores from Mogador.


Travels in the Atlas and Southern Morocco, a narrative of exploration . on by Ben Daoud, the governor of the town,was of the most inhospitable character, though we suc-ceeded in getting a commodious house in the heart ofthe Medinah. In some respects this was a desirablestate of matters, as we were left quite free to moveabout as we pleased, unwatched and unhampered bytroublesome soldiers. There were various reasons for taking up our quar-ters in the city at this time. was still unfit fortravelling, the heat had gradually become unbearable,and finally, we wanted some stores from Mogador. Wecalculated that we would be able to see all that wewanted of Morocco, and be off again in ten days or afortnight. Our calculation would, no doubt, have comeright in any other country in the world, but then wewere in Morocco, where the expected rarely happens;and, in spite of ourselves, the fortnight ran into fiveweeks before we were able to resume our mountaineer-ing. We had thus ample time to look about us andform a very fair idea of tho town and its ways of MARAKSH. 347 We did not recommence our exploration of the citywith quite the same hopeful enthusiasm which char-acterised our first look round. Much of the glamourand charm which our imagination had woven roundthe thought of Morocco and the Moor had long sincedisappeared. There was indeed a veneer of fascinationstill left, but underneath we had discovered little butwhat was disofustino- and revoltino^. Of the latter CD CD O the ordinary tourist sees almost nothing, while everconfronted with the former; and therefore those whoare only anxious to view strange and unusual sightsmay still wend Morocco-wards, and find much todelight them ; only, if they want their pleasure un-spoiled, they must not scratch beneath the surface. Before saying more about the Moor, however, letus try to form some more comprehensive idea of Maraksh than we have hitherto obtained. Let uscommence by taking a coup cfoeil over the city. From on


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