Through Portugal . hardly an equal in drives around Thomar are exquisitelybeautiful, the view from the hill across theriver embracing the monastery and the greatwhite sanctuary of the Misericordia, with itslong scala sacra, upon the twin hill, being onenever to be forgotten. Just outside the town,hard by an ancient pillar marking the junctionplace of the armies which won for a second timethe independence of Portugal from Spain (atAljubarrota, 1385), there stands the beautifulold church of Santa Maria, a perfect Gothicfane ; and close to its west end a strong towerbuilt as a place of


Through Portugal . hardly an equal in drives around Thomar are exquisitelybeautiful, the view from the hill across theriver embracing the monastery and the greatwhite sanctuary of the Misericordia, with itslong scala sacra, upon the twin hill, being onenever to be forgotten. Just outside the town,hard by an ancient pillar marking the junctionplace of the armies which won for a second timethe independence of Portugal from Spain (atAljubarrota, 1385), there stands the beautifulold church of Santa Maria, a perfect Gothicfane ; and close to its west end a strong towerbuilt as a place of refuge for its constructorsagainst the constant attacks of the Moors. MuchI should like to linger upon Thomar : upon thequaint garb of the peasants, the picturesque bitsof the old Manueline church of St. Joao in thepra9a, upon the lovely private gardens by the sideof the stream, upon the noble aqueduct, and uponthe sweet tranquillity of the acacia-shaded walks ;but I dare not delay further, for the carriage is 156. s oX r. COIMBRA, THOMAR, AND LEIRIA at the door of the humble though hospitable,Hotel Uniao, to carry me on this brilliantmorning the twenty-five miles to Leiria, whereI must pass the night. As we drove clear ofthe town the loveliness of its situation camehome to one with more intensity than peaceful stream winding through the plain,its course marked by a continuous line of poplars,the pine-clad hills all around—miles away butin this clear air seeming within touching distanceof the hand—the cluster of white and pink houseswith red roofs, and, almost sheer above them,the two hills, one crowned by its never-to-be-forgotten monastery-castle with its long battle-mented walls, its high keep, and, most strikingof all, its gaunt bell tower, with its guard of tallcypresses; whilst climbing up the gentler greenslope of the other hill is the snow-white scalasacra of twenty-five flights of steps leading tothe gleaming sanctuary of the all a sky


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Keywords: ., bookauthorhumemartinandrewsharp, bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900