The Argosy . skies. Finally, we all laid siege to a fur shop, andeveryone bought according to his ability, or the mania that was uponhim. Then back to the steamer, thankful that in spite of the smellsof Hammerfest, we were not dead yet. At three oclock in the after- About Norway. 213 noon, we started for the North Cape; though, alas, with faint hopeof any midnight sun. Between Hammerfest and the Cape, the outlines of the coast weregrand, and occasionally majestic; the weather was cloudy, but therain had obligingly ceased. As we approached our journeys endthe wind rose, and the cold grew bitter


The Argosy . skies. Finally, we all laid siege to a fur shop, andeveryone bought according to his ability, or the mania that was uponhim. Then back to the steamer, thankful that in spite of the smellsof Hammerfest, we were not dead yet. At three oclock in the after- About Norway. 213 noon, we started for the North Cape; though, alas, with faint hopeof any midnight sun. Between Hammerfest and the Cape, the outlines of the coast weregrand, and occasionally majestic; the weather was cloudy, but therain had obligingly ceased. As we approached our journeys endthe wind rose, and the cold grew bitter. The sea, too, becamerough, and everyone, except Herr X. and myself, went below. Weremained on deck, braving the elements, regardless of the lurchesthat every now and then unceremoniously sent us spinning from oneside of the vessel to the other, chairs and all, as if we had been acouple of barrels. The waves washed against the sides, broke overthe decks, and drenched us with spray ; but we were sublimely in-. Cathedral Church, Tromso. different to these small discomforts. Nearing the North Cape, boldoutlines of rocks, one headland after another of rude and savagegrandeur, confronted the sea: barren surfaces, as befitted rocks andheadlands looking straight towards the North Pole: headlands thatmarked the commencement of the Arctic regions. Yet, though down in the Christiania fjord the sea freezes intenselyin winter, up here at the North Cape it freezes never. Icebergs areunseen here, though some people imagine the contrary, and the meantemperature of the land and water is very even. This is due to theinfluence of the Gulf Stream. The extremes of cold must be soughtfurther inland and further south. At length, about eleven oclock at night, the fine, bold headland ofthe North Cape loomed into view. Very soon we entered the waterin front of it, that forms half a bay, and the vessel dropped heranchor. It was a cold, gloomy night : not a rift pierced the clouds 2 i 4 A bout Norway. t


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Keywords: ., bookauthorwoodhenr, bookcentury1800, bookdecade1860, bookyear1865