. Shore processes and shoreline development . te to that of the wave would seem inadmissible to compare these waves with thoseformed by the wind in the open ocean. Bremontier^^ supposedthat in normal wave motion the water particles rose and fell invertical paths, while Emy*^ presents arguments to show thatthe paths must be ellipses with the major axes vertical. Inboth cases the arguments are evidently unsound, and the con-clusions opposed by the results of more modern studies of deep-sea waves. In short, I have not found a satisfactory basis forthose illustrations of deep-sea wa
. Shore processes and shoreline development . te to that of the wave would seem inadmissible to compare these waves with thoseformed by the wind in the open ocean. Bremontier^^ supposedthat in normal wave motion the water particles rose and fell invertical paths, while Emy*^ presents arguments to show thatthe paths must be ellipses with the major axes vertical. Inboth cases the arguments are evidently unsound, and the con-clusions opposed by the results of more modern studies of deep-sea waves. In short, I have not found a satisfactory basis forthose illustrations of deep-sea waves showing elliptical orbitswith major axes vertical. 12 WATER WAVES As will readily appear from Figures 2 and 3 the size of the orbitsthrough which the water particles move decreases rapidly withincrease in depth. At the depth of one wave length below thesurface, the water particles of an oscillatory wave are movingin orbits whose diameters are only g^L_ as great as the diameterof the orbits at the surface^. We may express this relation in. Fig. 3. — Diagram showing theoretical form of a cycloidal wave, and therapid decrease in size of the orbits (through which the water particlesmove) with increasing depth. the following rule^^: For each additional ^ of the wave lengthbelow the mid-height of the surface wave, the diameter of theorbit is decreased by ^. Thus: Depth below mid-height of surface wave in frac-tions of wave length 0, Proportionate diameter of orbit 1, 2) ?» 8) T6: For the diameter of an orbit situated one wave length below thesurface, the rule would give a value of jy2 of the surface orbit,which is approximately correct and is the figure quoted byCornish^° and others. If the sea is disturbed by waves havinga height of 20 feet and a length of 400 feet, the water parti-cles at the surface move in circles having a diameter of 20 feet,while the particles at a depth of 400 feet move in circles onlyx*o of an inch in diameter. The importance of this principl
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