. A naturalist in the Transvaal. than of an antiquated building. This extra-ordinary structure has been built by a retired nativecommissioner, Capt. Dahl, and here he proposes todwell and, I believe, end his days. I never fully realizedbefore the true horrors of false taste; here where abungalow with flowered trellis and garden rich in nativeflora would have harmonized with the natural featuresof the scene, we found a second-rate representation ofwhat was most hateful in architecture and inconsistentwith its surroundings. We rested at sunset near thebase of a range of hills and then trekked on


. A naturalist in the Transvaal. than of an antiquated building. This extra-ordinary structure has been built by a retired nativecommissioner, Capt. Dahl, and here he proposes todwell and, I believe, end his days. I never fully realizedbefore the true horrors of false taste; here where abungalow with flowered trellis and garden rich in nativeflora would have harmonized with the natural featuresof the scene, we found a second-rate representation ofwhat was most hateful in architecture and inconsistentwith its surroundings. We rested at sunset near thebase of a range of hills and then trekked on till about11 , when we again outspanned the oxen and passedthe night on the outskirts of a field of .Kafir first night passed in a wagon has all the charm of .ZOUTPANSBERG AND THE MAGWAMBAS. 97 novelty; as one gazed through the opening behind at theclear starry sky, and realized the quiet of solitude, itseemed as though life was at last free, and social exist-ence deprived of its fetters. With the second days trek. CASTELLATED RESIDE>TCE IN ZOUTPANSBERG. the scenery altogether changed, the country was more orless thickly wooded, especially after fording the DwaasRiver, which we reached about noon. A few hoursfrom this spot we crossed a plain studded with granitichillocks, which rose like rocks and islands from a shallowsea ; viewed from above, the whole scene reminded oneof some portions of the coast of Brittany at low water,and it was difficult to overcome the impression that wewere gazing on an old ocean-bed. Most of theseelevated masses of granite were quite bare, with theirsurfaces highly heated by the rays of the sun. The only Europeans we met on our road up theSpelonken were the traders, who keep Kafir all seem to succeed, and some are moderately in-dependent after years of patience, industry, and solitude,for their life is a lonely one, especially when they are, H 98 A NATURALIST IN THE TRANSVAAL. as in many cases, unmarried. The living is b


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