In the forbidden land, an account of a journey into Tibet . THE CHAI-LEK PASS ourselves on the Buddi River, a tributary of the above the bridge was a magnificent waterfall, bythe left side of which we found a kind of grotto hol-lowed out under a rock. The Shokas and Tibetans usedit as a camping-ground. To our right, high up on the cliff-side, was the pict-uresque village of Buddi (9300 feet), with its two andthree storied houses. Below and over it in long zigzags THE CHAI PASS could be seen the track ascending to the top of Chai-Lek, or Tcheto Pass, as the Shokas call it. At bearings


In the forbidden land, an account of a journey into Tibet . THE CHAI-LEK PASS ourselves on the Buddi River, a tributary of the above the bridge was a magnificent waterfall, bythe left side of which we found a kind of grotto hol-lowed out under a rock. The Shokas and Tibetans usedit as a camping-ground. To our right, high up on the cliff-side, was the pict-uresque village of Buddi (9300 feet), with its two andthree storied houses. Below and over it in long zigzags THE CHAI PASS could be seen the track ascending to the top of Chai-Lek, or Tcheto Pass, as the Shokas call it. At bearingsmagnetic 170° we had the towering Namjun peak, sohigh that I was told it could be seen even from Almoraand Ranikhet. Then as we proceeded up the steep clayish track Icould not, on looking back, help admiring the magnifi-. NARROW GORGE BETWEEN TWO MOUNTAINS cent Kali valley, with its gigantic cliffs and gorges sur-mounted by lofty snow peaks. On that Chai Pass mytwo aneroids registered an altitude of 11,190 feet. I wasnow on a small, flat table-land. Darcy Bura, the richestShoka trader from Buddi, had erected here a baro:ain-house for the purchase and exchange of borax, salt, wool,and other articles from Tibet. On the left side of theroad a large cave in the rock had been walled and partly 69 IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND roofed over for the use of wife-seekers from the villagesof Buddi and Garbyang. These houses were called Ram-bangs, and were an old institution among the Shokas, ofwhich I shall have occasion to speak at length later customary, a few high poles with flying prayers anda bell had been placed near the pass. CHAPTER XI A SERIES OF MISFORTUNES — TIBETAN ATROCITIES ON BRITISH SUB-JECTS—TIBETAN EXACTIONS—REVOLTING CRUELTY TO ONE OF HERmajestys subjects — ASSAULT ON A BRITISH OFFICER —


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