. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . p-ing itself definitely into a skirted coat. Perhaps theheight of ornamentation in sleeves was in the closingyears of the reign of Charles II, though fancy sleeveslingered till the time of George I. In an account of the funeral of George Monck, theDuke of Albemarle, in the year 1670, the dress isvery carefully drawn of those who walked in the pro-cession. (Some of them are given facing page 188.)It may be noted, first, that all the hats are lowercrowned and straight crowned, not like a cone or atruncated cone, as crowns had been. The Poor
. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . p-ing itself definitely into a skirted coat. Perhaps theheight of ornamentation in sleeves was in the closingyears of the reign of Charles II, though fancy sleeveslingered till the time of George I. In an account of the funeral of George Monck, theDuke of Albemarle, in the year 1670, the dress isvery carefully drawn of those who walked in the pro-cession. (Some of them are given facing page 188.)It may be noted, first, that all the hats are lowercrowned and straight crowned, not like a cone or atruncated cone, as crowns had been. The Poor Menare in robes with beards and flowing natural hair;they wear square bands, and carry staves. TheClergymen wear trailing surplices ; but these are overa sort of cassock and breeches, and they all havehigh-heeled shoes with great roses. They also havetheir own hair. The Doctors of Physic are dressedlike the Gentlemen and Earls, save that they wear arich robe with bands at the upper arm, over the otherfine dress. The gentlemen wear a cassock, or coat,. Earl of Southampton. The Evolution of Coats and Waistcoats 191 which reaches to the knee; the pockets are nearlyas low as the knee. These cassocks have lapelsfrom neck to hem, with a long row of gold buttonswhich are wholly for ornament, the cassock neverbeing fastened with the buttons. The sleeves reachonly to the elbow and turn back in a spreading cuff;and from the elbow hang heavy ruffles and under-sleeves, some of rich lace, others of gentlemen and earls wear great wigs. This coat was called a surcoat or tunic. Theunder-coat, or waistcoat, was also called a vest, asby Charles the king. From this vest, or surcoat, was developed a coat,with skirts, such as had become, ere the year 1700,the universal wear of English and American first form was adopted about at the close of thereign of Charles II. By 1688 Quaker teacherswarned their younger sort against cross-pockets onmens coats, side slopes, over-full skir
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