A tour through the Pyrenees . Chap. I. ON THE WAY TO LUZ. 241 IV. We no sooner reach Lestelle, than we are as-sured on all sides that we must visit the pass between rows of shops full of rosaries,basins for holy-water, medals, small crucifixes,through a cross-fire of offers, exhortations and w^hich we are free to admire the edifice, aliberty which we are careful not to abuse. On theportal, indeed, there is a pretty enough virgin inthe style of the seventeenth century, four evange-lists in marble, and in the interior several tolerablepictures ; but the blue dome starred wi


A tour through the Pyrenees . Chap. I. ON THE WAY TO LUZ. 241 IV. We no sooner reach Lestelle, than we are as-sured on all sides that we must visit the pass between rows of shops full of rosaries,basins for holy-water, medals, small crucifixes,through a cross-fire of offers, exhortations and w^hich we are free to admire the edifice, aliberty which we are careful not to abuse. On theportal, indeed, there is a pretty enough virgin inthe style of the seventeenth century, four evange-lists in marble, and in the interior several tolerablepictures ; but the blue dome starred with goldlooks like a bonbonniere, the walls are disgracedwith engravings from the rue Saint-Jacques, thealtar is loaded with gewgaws. The gilded den ispretentious and gloomy ; for such a beautiful coun-try the good God seems but ill harbored. The poor little chapel nestles close to a hugemountain wooded with crowded green thickets,which stretches out superbly in the light, andwarms its belly in the sun. The highway isabruptly


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