. Coastal awareness : a resource guide for teachers in elementary science / prepared by Frederick A. Rasmussen. Seashore A gradually shoaling bottom results in a waye that releases its energy more slowly. When a crest finally becomes unstable, it rolls down or spills into the trough and the wave face remains gently sloped. It is these "spilling waves" that display white water at the crest. Irregularities in the ocean bottom tend to make waves spill rather than plunge. Even long-period waves break as spillers on a flat sloped beach, but any suddenly shallow spots will cause
. Coastal awareness : a resource guide for teachers in elementary science / prepared by Frederick A. Rasmussen. Seashore A gradually shoaling bottom results in a waye that releases its energy more slowly. When a crest finally becomes unstable, it rolls down or spills into the trough and the wave face remains gently sloped. It is these "spilling waves" that display white water at the crest. Irregularities in the ocean bottom tend to make waves spill rather than plunge. Even long-period waves break as spillers on a flat sloped beach, but any suddenly shallow spots will cause most waves to "suck out" and plunge, regardless of their periods. Most surf zones are in a state of constant change. Wind is not the only generator of waves. Earthquakes on the land or under the sea may cause a drastically low tide that is followed by destructive giant waves (sometimes called tsunamis) hurling relentlessly against the shore. TIDES The tides are important in determining the character of the coast. Tides result from the effect on the waters of the gravitational attraction among the sun, moon, and earth. -5-. Please note that these images are extracted from scanned page images that may have been digitally enhanced for readability - coloration and appearance of these illustrations may not perfectly resemble the original Rasmussen, Frederick A. Washington, D. C. : National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration: U. S. Dept. of Commerce
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