Italian hours . ough the smoke of their pipes. Is it really the masses, how-ever, that I see every day at the table dhote ? They have rather toofew hs to the dozen, but their good-nature is great. Some peoplecomplain that they vulgarise Switzerland; but as far as I amconcerned I freely give it up to them and offer them a personalwelcome and take a peculiar satisfaction in seeing them is a show country — I am more and more struckwith the bearings of that truth; and its use in the world is toreassure persons of a benevolient imagination when they beginto wish for the drudging mi
Italian hours . ough the smoke of their pipes. Is it really the masses, how-ever, that I see every day at the table dhote ? They have rather toofew hs to the dozen, but their good-nature is great. Some peoplecomplain that they vulgarise Switzerland; but as far as I amconcerned I freely give it up to them and offer them a personalwelcome and take a peculiar satisfaction in seeing them is a show country — I am more and more struckwith the bearings of that truth; and its use in the world is toreassure persons of a benevolient imagination when they beginto wish for the drudging millions a greater supply of elevatingamusement. Here is amusement for a thousand years, and aselevating certainly as mountains three miles high can make expect to live to see the summit of Monte Rosa heated bysteam-tubes and adorned with a hotel setting three tables dhotea day. I have been walking about the arcades, which used to bestowa grateful shade in July, but which seem rather dusky and chilly [ 136]. THE CLOCK TOWER, BERNE. THE OLD SAINT-GOTHARD in these shortening autumn days. I am struck with the waythe EngUsh always speak of them — with a shudder, as gloomy,as dirty, as evil-smelling, as suffocating, as freezing, as anythingand everything but admirably picturesque. I take us Americansfor the only people who, in travelling, judge things on the firstimpulse — when we do judge them at all — not from the stand-point of simple comfort. Most of us, strolling forth into thesebustling basements, are, I imagine, too much amused, too muchdiverted from the sense of an alienable right to public ease, tobe conscious of heat or cold, of thick air, or even of the universalsmell of strong charcuterie. If the visible romantic were banishedfrom the face of the earth I am sure the idea of it would stillsurvive in some typical American heart. . Lucerne, September. — Berne, I find, has been filling withtourists at the expense of Lucerne, which I have been havingalmost to mys
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