The practical fruit grower . TIME AND MANNER OF PRUNING. 77 back all the strong shoots to three buds and removing entirelyall weak canes not needed to carry out the system. In the re-newal system, those shoots that are to remain for fruiting nextseason are shortened to a proper length, and the shoots fromwhich the new canes are to be grown are cut back to spurs. Allwood, not needed to carry out the system, is cut away. The best time for pruning is in the fall or winter. Pruningafter the sap begins to move in the spring, or after the middle ofMarch, cannot be recommended, although there is no e
The practical fruit grower . TIME AND MANNER OF PRUNING. 77 back all the strong shoots to three buds and removing entirelyall weak canes not needed to carry out the system. In the re-newal system, those shoots that are to remain for fruiting nextseason are shortened to a proper length, and the shoots fromwhich the new canes are to be grown are cut back to spurs. Allwood, not needed to carry out the system, is cut away. The best time for pruning is in the fall or winter. Pruningafter the sap begins to move in the spring, or after the middle ofMarch, cannot be recommended, although there is no evidence toprove that the vines are injured by the bleeding that takesplace when pruned so late. The best implement for pruning is the common hand .pruning. Fig. 61. shears, of which there are many good patterns. The dotted linesat a, Figs. 61 and 62, show where the cuts are to be made.
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, bookdecade1880, bookidp, booksubjectfruitculture
