. The 20th century toolsmith and steel worker; a complete, practical, and scientific book, written by a thorough expert mechanic and steelworker, especially in the interests of blacksmiths, toolsmiths, toolmakers, and all mechanics connected directly on indirectly with the use, repair, and manufacture of steel into tools . y readily touch the anvil face with hisknuckles when clasping the hammer handle and stand-ing in an upright position. Dont have the anvil merely sitting on a block thatis continually jumping up and down with every blowfrom the hammer, but have it well bound to the
. The 20th century toolsmith and steel worker; a complete, practical, and scientific book, written by a thorough expert mechanic and steelworker, especially in the interests of blacksmiths, toolsmiths, toolmakers, and all mechanics connected directly on indirectly with the use, repair, and manufacture of steel into tools . y readily touch the anvil face with hisknuckles when clasping the hammer handle and stand-ing in an upright position. Dont have the anvil merely sitting on a block thatis continually jumping up and down with every blowfrom the hammer, but have it well bound to the some will say, That stops it from ringing, or ^Icant work on an anvil that does not ring. Reader,this is all nonsense, what has the ringing of the anvilto do with the work, it may be all right for the classthat wants to make a lot of noise to let others knowthey are working, but it is of no use when it comes todoing the work with ease, both for the blacksmith andhelper. So have a block a little larger than the base of 36 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY the anvil, a good depth in the ground, say 3I/2 or 4 feet(if it cant be made solid any other way), place theanvil on it and bore a hole through the block 6 inchesbelow the anvil. Now make a bolt from % round iron 2^^ incheslonger than the block, as shown in Figure 2 at a. Make. ?B & Fig. 2. Irons to bind anvil to block. two irons from % square as b, leaving them longenough so that the holes in the ends will extend overthe base of the anvil. After taking the measure maketwo irons, as c, which are to extend from below thebolt in the post up through the irons that rest on thebase of the anvil b. Place all together and tighteu TOOLSMITH AND STEEL WORKER 37 up the nuts firmly. Figure 3 illustrates the anvil fast-ened to the block. In large up to date shops cast ironblocks are used, which are made especially for theanvil to fit into, thereby holding the anvil perfectlyfast.
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, bookpublisherc, booksubjectsteel
