Violin-making, as it was and is : being a historical, theoretical, and practical treatise on the science and art of violin-making, for the use of violin makers and players, amateur and professional . and fix an exactly similarblock at the top of the fiddle in the same way. After each ofthese operations, take a fine brush, and with a little hot waterout of the glue-pot, wash away from your work all tracesof superfluous glue. Now proceed to fix the inner bouts, or,as they are technically termed, Cs I these must be mostcarefully bent to the exact shape of the mould, cuttingthe ends square, and to
Violin-making, as it was and is : being a historical, theoretical, and practical treatise on the science and art of violin-making, for the use of violin makers and players, amateur and professional . and fix an exactly similarblock at the top of the fiddle in the same way. After each ofthese operations, take a fine brush, and with a little hot waterout of the glue-pot, wash away from your work all tracesof superfluous glue. Now proceed to fix the inner bouts, or,as they are technically termed, Cs I these must be mostcarefully bent to the exact shape of the mould, cuttingthe ends square, and to exactly the right length. The endsmust then be cut to a bevel, so as to fit into the corners,against the upper ends of the lower bouts, in the mannershown at c, in Fig. 142, which is drawn the actual size ofthe mould (Plate IV.). When you have got them thus tofit, and cleaned and scraped them thoroughly inside andout, cover the bevel of the ends of the Cs with glue, slip 1 Some makers (Stradivari amongst them) frequently used sallow wood forthe blocks and linings, as being lighter than deal. There is little, if any,differpru^ between them, and the mo^p of working is the same. CVide p. 147.). THE SIDES, OK RIBS, BLOCKS AND SIDE-LININGS. 235 them in so that the glued ends fit against the lower bouts in the corners, as at C in Fig. 142, and cramp them in with the cramping-blocks, J and K (Plate IV.). Now take a fine slip of wood, and dipping it into the glue, just run it into the corners so as to complete the join, remove the superfluous glue, and set the mould to dry. Bear in mind throughout the operation of setting the sides and blocks, that you must leave a little rim of wood above and below the surfaces of the mould, to be shaved away when levelling the sides to the diameter of the mould, otherwise (if the sides do not reach the surfaces of the mould), they will be found to be too shallow when you come to fix on the back and belly. The next operation is the cutting and fixing
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