. Dalmatia : the Quarnero and Istria with Cettigne in Montenegro and the Island of Grado. ndchildren, in their picturesque national costume, areconstantly to be met singing snatches of hymns asthey climb the five hundred steps which, five at atime with intervals of inclined planes, ascend thehill from the outskirts of Fiume to the sacredenclosure. The only thing of interest that we noticed withinthe church is the sepulchral slab in the pavement tothe memory of Count Nicolo dei Frangipani (Fig. 92),which has been already mentioned^ The church is Catholic clergj-men of the present day do not, i^
. Dalmatia : the Quarnero and Istria with Cettigne in Montenegro and the Island of Grado. ndchildren, in their picturesque national costume, areconstantly to be met singing snatches of hymns asthey climb the five hundred steps which, five at atime with intervals of inclined planes, ascend thehill from the outskirts of Fiume to the sacredenclosure. The only thing of interest that we noticed withinthe church is the sepulchral slab in the pavement tothe memory of Count Nicolo dei Frangipani (Fig. 92),which has been already mentioned^ The church is Catholic clergj-men of the present day do not, i^erhaps dare notwrite in the same strain of common sense. But I have knowneven Anglican divines affect to speak with bated breath of theSanta Casa of Loretto. The Abbate Fortis says: In our daysthis legend is not believed nor maintained even at Rome ; but theCroats are two hundred years behind us in these matters. Vid. supra, p. 132. 170 The Canale delta Morlacca. [Ch. xxvil. not worth the trouble of a visit, but for the sake ofthe picturesque crowds of pilgrims who are to bemet TeRSATTO HlC 1ACETDNSNIC0LAV5DE FRANGHAPAMIBVS V(5ESEGNE NODRVSIE COMES Fig. 92. From Fiume a line of small coasting steamersruns down the shore of Croatia, touching at thevarious little towns on the seaboard, and also atsome of the islands. For stern grandeur and wildmagnificence no part of the Dalmatian coast willbear comparison with this. The range of loftymountains which farther southward recedes fromthe sea, and only approaches it again beyondSpalato, here forms a mighty sea-wall, generallydescending abrujDtly into the water, but now andthen leaving a narrow foreshore with just roomenough for a little town and a miniature to the full fury of the Bora the steep hillsides are swept bare of vegetation ; and the naked Ch. XXYIL] The Canale della Morlacca. 171 rock is bleached by sun and rain to a pearly whitewhich takes almost iridescent hues at sunrise andsunset, and on which the s
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