Embroidery and lace: their manufacture and history from the remotest antiquity to the present dayA handbook for amateurs, collectors and general readers . earliest Frenchpainting in which lace is depicted), it will be seen thatthey were of no greater importance than that belongingto the sisters Sforza-Visconti, which was made withtwelve bobbins. The collar of the king is in fact trimmed with atiny dentated edgingof open work. The name passe-ment (also used inEngland in the six-teenth century), wasgiven to the earliestplaited thread lacesor bobbin laces (seefigs. 121 and 122). Itcomes from the


Embroidery and lace: their manufacture and history from the remotest antiquity to the present dayA handbook for amateurs, collectors and general readers . earliest Frenchpainting in which lace is depicted), it will be seen thatthey were of no greater importance than that belongingto the sisters Sforza-Visconti, which was made withtwelve bobbins. The collar of the king is in fact trimmed with atiny dentated edgingof open work. The name passe-ment (also used inEngland in the six-teenth century), wasgiven to the earliestplaited thread lacesor bobbin laces (seefigs. 121 and 122). Itcomes from the title of the corporation of Passementiers,who had the monopoly, according to their statutes of1663 (article 21), of making all sorts of passements oflacework on the pillow, with bobbins, pins, and byhand (probably in this case with a hooked or crochetneedle), in gold and silver thread, both real and false,in silk, and white and coloured thread. In the accountsof the kings treasurer, 1557 (Archives Nationales., KK.,106), appears, Passement of fine black silk dentelle(with open dentations) on one side. The accounts of the Queen of Navarre (1577) also. Fig. 121.—A bobbin or pillow-made passement of the sixteenth century. TO THE END OF THE REIGN OF LOUIS XIV. 265 show an entry : For two ells of silver passement withdeep dentations (haute dantelle), to be used as a facing,at sixty sols the ell.* An inventory (1645) °f the Church of St. Medard,at Paris, has mention of four lengths of finecambric to surround the pulpit, and a beautiful surplicefor the preacher, trimmed with deep passements a dan-teller Hence passement and dentelle are convertible termsfor bobbin lace, or open work trimmings of plaited andtwisted thread. As we have stated, the passementiers or trimmingmakers often used gimp cord. For bobbin work thisgimp cord, from its stiffness, could only be used inrespect of large open passements. Whence the nameof guipure came to be used for all lace in which thegrounds were ver


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, booksubjectembroi, booksubjectlaceandlacemaking