. Beach profile change measured in the tank for large waves : 1956-1957 and 1962. Coast changes; Ocean waves; Hydraulic models. Elapsed Time (hr) Figure 8. Growth of maximum bar height Zg through time Depth at the bar crest 54. Depth at the bar crest hc was almost constant throughout a run, as seen in Figure 9. In some cases, h underwent an abrupt change (for example, Case 200), caused by a second bar located inshore that grew and merged with the main breakpoint bar. Thus, although main breakpoint bars moved considerably offshore, they simultaneously grew in size, with the result that the dept
. Beach profile change measured in the tank for large waves : 1956-1957 and 1962. Coast changes; Ocean waves; Hydraulic models. Elapsed Time (hr) Figure 8. Growth of maximum bar height Zg through time Depth at the bar crest 54. Depth at the bar crest hc was almost constant throughout a run, as seen in Figure 9. In some cases, h underwent an abrupt change (for example, Case 200), caused by a second bar located inshore that grew and merged with the main breakpoint bar. Thus, although main breakpoint bars moved considerably offshore, they simultaneously grew in size, with the result that the depth at the bar crest remained unchanged. Even the test with a varying water level (Case 911) showed an approximately constant depth over the bar crest during the course of the run, indicating that there was little time lag between the change in water level and response of the profile. In Figure 9, h appears to vary for Case 911 because of the use of a fixed origin that was located at the initial still-water shoreline. Bar location and movement 55. For cases that exhibited significant erosion, the main breakpoint bar usually translated offshore with time. As a convenient measure of the location of the main breakpoint bar, the position of the bar center of mass with respect to the initial still-water shoreline was calculated. Figure 10 displays the horizontal location of the bar center of mass as a function of 29. Please note that these images are extracted from scanned page images that may have been digitally enhanced for readability - coloration and appearance of these illustrations may not perfectly resemble the original Kraus, Nicholas C; Larson, Magnus; U. S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station; Coastal Engineering Research Center (U. S. ); United States. Army. Corps of Engineers. Vicksburg, Miss. : U. S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station ; Springfield, Va. : available from National Technical Information Service
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