Across the Andes . been contested between the liberal and theclerical elements after the returns were counted—or, quite as often, during that process. The chief industry is in a few machine shopsand central supply houses for the mines of the in-terior. Outside of this there is nothing. A fewsmall shops with the cheapest and shabbiest ofstocks cluster around the plaza; on Sunday thatsame plaza is scantily filled with the select ofArequipa while the stocky police keep it clearedof the tattered urchins and Indians of the week-days. There is the dull, oppressive sense ofwretched poverty or genteel
Across the Andes . been contested between the liberal and theclerical elements after the returns were counted—or, quite as often, during that process. The chief industry is in a few machine shopsand central supply houses for the mines of the in-terior. Outside of this there is nothing. A fewsmall shops with the cheapest and shabbiest ofstocks cluster around the plaza; on Sunday thatsame plaza is scantily filled with the select ofArequipa while the stocky police keep it clearedof the tattered urchins and Indians of the week-days. There is the dull, oppressive sense ofwretched poverty or genteel destitution. It is inthe sharpest contrast with the general run ofother and typical Latin cities; the whole cityseems to have become encysted in a hopelesspoverty in which any form of local energy ispermitted to find expression only in ecclesiasti-cal fireworks or mystical parades of wailing andincense. The start from Arequipa up to Lake Titicacais made in the early morning. The huge cone THE CITY OF CHURCHES 85. AN ANDEAN TOURING CAR of Misti—looking for all the world like a vastslag dump—stands forth with telescopic detailin the high, rare air mellowed in the cool morn-ing sun. Prickling and glistening on the evenslopes or in the purple shadows, the frost stillclings like a lichen to the barren rocks and thereis a thin touch of briskness in the air like thetaste of fall on a September morning back at the station the departure of the trainis in the nature of an event like the sailing of asteamer. Already the train—one first-class and 86 ACROSS THE ANDES two second-class coaches—is filled, aisles andseats, with a shuffling crowd already in the ec-stacy of a noisy and mournful, but interminableleave taking. Their view of the hazards of ajourney by rail may not be so far out of the wayfor on the steep grades of these Andean roads atrain has been known to break in half and goscuttling back down hill until the hand-brakestake effect; also, and later, on the anc
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1910, bookpublishernewyo, bookyear1912
