The passing of the Shereefian empire . ir built the first Mellaor Jewish quarter founded in Morocco. LaterSultans gradually built the mass of buildingswhich compose the Marzhen. In 1554 the citywas besieged by the Turks, and in consequencethe outer walls were constructed. To descend from the hills and to pass throughthe gate of Bab-el-Mahrouq (where the heads ofrebels have been hung for centuries) is like enter-ing a maze, though no ordinary maze open to theskies, but a dark maze into which a ray of sun-shine sometimes finds its way through the vines,rushes, and straw which spread from roof to
The passing of the Shereefian empire . ir built the first Mellaor Jewish quarter founded in Morocco. LaterSultans gradually built the mass of buildingswhich compose the Marzhen. In 1554 the citywas besieged by the Turks, and in consequencethe outer walls were constructed. To descend from the hills and to pass throughthe gate of Bab-el-Mahrouq (where the heads ofrebels have been hung for centuries) is like enter-ing a maze, though no ordinary maze open to theskies, but a dark maze into which a ray of sun-shine sometimes finds its way through the vines,rushes, and straw which spread from roof to roof,and form a canopy above the crowded streets. Thesestreets—passages would be more accurate—are so-narrow that laden mules can hardly pass, and windin and out in such hopeless confusion that unlessyou are with a guide you will most assuredlybe lost. Medina in Morocco means the businessquarter. After you have wandered through itfor a short time you realise how completely Fez:and its inhabitants differ from the rest of Morocco,,. Gafeivav leading to the Murzlicn. THE FASI. 259 and how Immeasurably superior are the habits,education, and institutions of its citizens. Theboasted culture and civilisation of which you haveheard so much, but in which you have lost allfaith during your long ride inland, are nowbrought home with irresistible force. But theFasis, civilised and cultured though they be, havenot borrowed any of the second-hand attractionsof Europe like the Japanese. Their customs andtheir culture are peculiarly their own, and havethrived for centuries, a bright torch in the Saisvalley, whilst Europe was still plunged in thedarkness and ignorance of the Middle Ages. Asa general rule the fanaticism of a race subsideswith its progress, for the wider its knowledge andeducation the more broad-minded and tolerant itbecomes. Fez differs in this respect, as in almostall others, from the common rule. Its citizens arethe most fanatical of all Mahommedans, and theexecration in
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