. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography SAND STORAGE ON ROCKY COASTS 301. FIGURE 44. Representative examples of inlet morphology. (a) Fire Island Inlet, Long Island, a barrier-overlap inlet on a drift-aligned coast. Littoral drift dominates the ebb tidal jet. (b) Ocracoke Inlet. North Carolina. Nearly symmetrical inlet land coast. Frequently, however, the retreat path of the estuary is visible in the form of a cross-shelf channel and a ridge on the updrift side of the channel. On the Dela
. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography SAND STORAGE ON ROCKY COASTS 301. FIGURE 44. Representative examples of inlet morphology. (a) Fire Island Inlet, Long Island, a barrier-overlap inlet on a drift-aligned coast. Littoral drift dominates the ebb tidal jet. (b) Ocracoke Inlet. North Carolina. Nearly symmetrical inlet land coast. Frequently, however, the retreat path of the estuary is visible in the form of a cross-shelf channel and a ridge on the updrift side of the channel. On the Dela- ware inner shelf, such a ridge can be seen to mark the retreat path of the shoal on the north side of the estuary mouth, while the associated channel has formed by the retreat of the main flood channel of the estuary mouth (see Fig. 12, Chapter 15). Coastal Inlets and Littoral Drift The morphology of narrow estuary mouths and their analogs, coastal inlets, depends on the relative strengths of the river mouth or inlet jet, the wave-driven littoral current, and the tidal- and wind-driven components of the shelf flow field. Distributary mouths, subject to pe- riodic flooding and entering relatively tideless, wave- sheltered seas, consist of subaerial levees capped by a lunate distributary mouth shoal (Fig. 42^4). As a con- sequence of the Coriolis effect, flow is more intense on the right-hand side of the channel looking downstream, and as a consequence, the right-hand levee tends to ex- tend itself farther seaward as in the case of Mississippi distributary mouths. If the inlet faces an open or tidal sea, then the wave- and tide-driven coastal flow is diverted seaward around the ebb tidal jet (Todd, 1968) and the shoal assumes a half-teardrop shape (Fig. 425). On barrier coasts, the pattern of sand storage at tidal inlets tends toward one of three basic patterns: overlap, symmetrical, or offset inlets (Fig. 44). While these pat- terns have long been recognized, the responsible t
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