Hungary . lid salt, where Mass was saidonce a year. Altar, crucifix, steps, vaulted roofand floor, all were cut out of clear, transparentsalt. Our stay at Desze extended over two bathed in the river and walked on the hills ;we visited wooden churches whose walls insidewere painted in tempera with primitive pictures ;we attended a christening in a priests kitchen, anda peasant wedding in his church; and went after-wards, with the music, to a dance outside thehouse of the newly-married couple, and a feastwithin it which consisted of formal rows of loavesof bread with flowers planted in


Hungary . lid salt, where Mass was saidonce a year. Altar, crucifix, steps, vaulted roofand floor, all were cut out of clear, transparentsalt. Our stay at Desze extended over two bathed in the river and walked on the hills ;we visited wooden churches whose walls insidewere painted in tempera with primitive pictures ;we attended a christening in a priests kitchen, anda peasant wedding in his church; and went after-wards, with the music, to a dance outside thehouse of the newly-married couple, and a feastwithin it which consisted of formal rows of loavesof bread with flowers planted in them, andwine-bottles between, while other loaves hungsuspended by garlands of leaves from the lowceiling. The bashful bride, in one corner, wept orhid her face, as was the custom. We found apoacher with his hand blown off by dynamite (hehad been in the act of placing it in the river), whowould almost certainly have bled to death had notone of the Notarys guests known how to stanch STREAMS IN EAST HUNGARY. DESZE, OTHER PLACES, AND A SALT-MINE 241 his wound; and we often sat in the evenings onthe Notarys wooden steps, which commanded aview over roUing prairies extending beyond theriver to the mountains, and watched the mud-crusted buffalo cows as they plucked last mouthfulsof mulberry leaves from the trees in the courtbelow us before they were driven to their shedsfor the night. The party at the Notarys steadily came a son from college with a comrade whowas to stay with him during the holidays ; then ayoung engineer, friend of the eldest son, on a visitwhich was to last for six weeks ; and next, thesister of the Notarys v^fe with her husband andson, for a shorter stay of a fortnight. How orwhere they all slept we never knew. If some-times there was much noise at meals, we got usedto it—as at first I thought we never was most kind and attentive, the youngmen being always ready to jump up and wait onus. When the weather grew hot the childrencame


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, bookpublisherlondonaandcblack