. Travels in the Pyrenees : including Andorra and the coast from Barcelona to Carcassonne. ne broke inPuigcerda in a blaze of sun-light, and the day is onethat I look back upon asone of the most vivid of mylife. My room looked outon a back street, upon anold grey wall, rough withthe boulders left here by thegreat glacier of the Cer-dagne ; but, except that itwas luminous in the morn-ing sunHght, it offered nopromise of what was tocome. About nine I wentout into the Plaza Mayor,whose houses are upheld inold sixteenth-century styleon granite posts, many of which are now askew. Underthese a rough


. Travels in the Pyrenees : including Andorra and the coast from Barcelona to Carcassonne. ne broke inPuigcerda in a blaze of sun-light, and the day is onethat I look back upon asone of the most vivid of mylife. My room looked outon a back street, upon anold grey wall, rough withthe boulders left here by thegreat glacier of the Cer-dagne ; but, except that itwas luminous in the morn-ing sunHght, it offered nopromise of what was tocome. About nine I wentout into the Plaza Mayor,whose houses are upheld inold sixteenth-century styleon granite posts, many of which are now askew. Underthese a rough arcade runs round the square. In thecentre is a marble statue of Cabrinetty, who defended theheroic and invincible town in the Carlist war of streets are dirty, the houses rather tattered andneglected, the shops those of a small and dingy littleprovincial town. In spite of the warm sunlight, I felt dis-consolate and chilled, for I had heard so much of me rose the ex-noble building, now used by theCirculo Agricola Mercantil, which opens its doors to the 239. ST. LEOCADIE, NEAR SAILLAGODSE 240 TRAVELS IN THE PYRENEES passing stranger. I entered, therefore, its rather sombre pre-cincts, and mounted the stairway to the first floor, whereevidently was a cafe, frowsy as a London tea-room at thatearly hour when the poor drudges who wait upon an econom-ical public still have their hair in curl-papers, and are not yetfinished scrubbing the floor. A seedy-looking waiter stoodbehind a bar, garnished with aperitifs^ a coffee-urn and somepicture post-cards. From this unpromising interior I steppedout through the glazed and coloured doors on to a terrace,commanding one of the most lovely views in the world. The terrace itself was haughtily placed upon some oldwalls, which dropped down to the lower strata of the town,and it was worthy of a Prince. Charlemagne, if he evercame this way, can have asked for nothing more view embraced the whole of the Spani


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1910, booksubjectfranced, bookyear1913