. Pacific shores from Panama . ing all our stay,with good Prudenzio to cook for us and faithful Juanto serve us, the hotels of the town offering but apoor alternative for the comfort of this abode outin the broad fields just beyond the smells and dirtof the tow^n. But let me say it here—this is the onlyPeruvian city we visited that offended us in thisway, the other places being far cleaner and betterkept than most of the small towns of Italy or Spain. The Easter services did not prove remarkable, re-sembling in all their essentials those we had seen inMediterranean countries, except for one im
. Pacific shores from Panama . ing all our stay,with good Prudenzio to cook for us and faithful Juanto serve us, the hotels of the town offering but apoor alternative for the comfort of this abode outin the broad fields just beyond the smells and dirtof the tow^n. But let me say it here—this is the onlyPeruvian city we visited that offended us in thisway, the other places being far cleaner and betterkept than most of the small towns of Italy or Spain. The Easter services did not prove remarkable, re-sembling in all their essentials those we had seen inMediterranean countries, except for one importantceremony—that of Holy Thursday. The interior of the cathedral at Cuzco is arrangedafter the peculiar fashion of some Spanish churches,with its choir occupying a large space in the centralnave. Richly wrought gates enclose it and a broadflight of carpeted steps lead from it to the massivesilver high altar. This arrangement, though welladapted for processionals, blocks the view of most of the congregation. [186] ^-^^m. Line the Arcades of the Plaza with Their Gavdy Wares PACIFIC SHORES FROM PANAMA On this particular morning the bishop himself wasofficiating. The scene was imposing. As you stoodin the centre of the nave you looked in one directiontoward the richly carved silleria, or stalls of thechoir, occupied by the clergy in purple and in front of the gilded gates that shut it in, theprefect and all the civil authorities in full uniform,together with the superior officers of the garrison,sat in red-velvet arm-chairs. In the other directionyou saw the high altar raised upon its lofty platformand backed by a magnificent retahlo, carved andgilded, that reaches to the arches overhead. Priestsmoved about, half hidden in clouds of incense, choir-boys and assistants walked in procession betweenrows of people kneeling or sitting upon the llama-wool carpets of the nave, among them Spanishwomen in black rebosos, Indians in ponchos, andcholos in nondescript garments
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