The shoe industry . n, russet, or plain. A Side of Leather. The larger skins are generallycut along the back into two halves or sides. The usualnames for the parts of each side are, head, shoulder,bend, and belly. The bend is the best portionof the back, behind the shoulders, the firmest leatherof the entire skin. This part is devoted to the bestuses and the higher grades of shoes, other parts tolower grades. Divisions of Leather in Shoe Manufacture. Inshoe manufacture leather is divided into twogeneral classes, upper leather, and sole leather. Theupper leather includes the outer parts of the
The shoe industry . n, russet, or plain. A Side of Leather. The larger skins are generallycut along the back into two halves or sides. The usualnames for the parts of each side are, head, shoulder,bend, and belly. The bend is the best portionof the back, behind the shoulders, the firmest leatherof the entire skin. This part is devoted to the bestuses and the higher grades of shoes, other parts tolower grades. Divisions of Leather in Shoe Manufacture. Inshoe manufacture leather is divided into twogeneral classes, upper leather, and sole leather. Theupper leather includes the outer parts of the shoeabove the sole and leather when used for leather includes that used for the outer andinner soles, heels, counters, and rands. Upper leatheris usually measured by the square foot; sole leather,by the pound. The Varieties of Upper Leather. There are fivechief kinds of upper leather, as follows: Kid or goat,calfskin, side leather, sheepskin, and coltskin orhorsehide. There are also other kinds, such as. 96 The Shoe Industry kangaroo, chamois, buckskin, pigskin, and a fewspecial and fancy leathers. Kid. Kid is the name for leather made from theskins of full-grown goats, coming mainly from themountains of India, Europe, and South are over sixty recognized varieties of goat-skins. According to its tanning and finishing, kidis classed as glazed, mat, royal, cadet, patent,suede, bronze, pebbled or morocco, etc. Glazed kid, from the French glace kid, ispolished after tanning, and its glossy surface is ob-tained by burnishing on the grain side. It is pro-duced in various colors. Glazed kid is used for theuppers of shoes. Mat kid has a dull, soft, black finish, fromtreatment with beeswax or olive oil. Patent leather is produced by applying a coatof varnish to the finished surface of the skin. Enamel leather has a hard, glossy finish on thegrain side, being boarded and varnished. Suede leather, a French term, means Swedishfinished. It is finished on the flesh
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