. Pacific shores from Panama . od an olive-oil bottle,filled with a thick, black mixture, which, on closeracquaintance, proved to be the richest extract ofcoffee, a few drops of which at breakfast in a cup ofmilk made strong caje au lait. Sonsonate has but one street of importance. Onlya few paces from the hotel it crosses a high bridgethat commands a fine view up and down a deepgorge, luxuriantly tropical, where the women standknee-deep in the pools washing their vari-colouredgarments, and of the handsome blue distant moun-tains that shut off the town to the eastward. Upon this bridge there i
. Pacific shores from Panama . od an olive-oil bottle,filled with a thick, black mixture, which, on closeracquaintance, proved to be the richest extract ofcoffee, a few drops of which at breakfast in a cup ofmilk made strong caje au lait. Sonsonate has but one street of importance. Onlya few paces from the hotel it crosses a high bridgethat commands a fine view up and down a deepgorge, luxuriantly tropical, where the women standknee-deep in the pools washing their vari-colouredgarments, and of the handsome blue distant moun-tains that shut off the town to the eastward. Upon this bridge there is always a strange con-course of people and animals: women, straight anderect, balancing baskets of fruit, ollas of water, andbrown earthen bowls of frijoles upon their heads;ox-carts rumbling along upon their solid woodenwheels and covered with great dried cowhides, andonce in a while a little tram-car, mule-drawn, thatseems to meander off to nowhere at all. The pave-ment of the street rises and falls in a thousand ruts [244]. ^■,^,.Tr« Sonsonate THE ISTHMUS TO THE GOLDEN GATE and gullies, heaving itself as if a long series of earth-quakes had utterly shattered its cobbled surfaces. The little shops are kept for the most part byChinamen or Armenians, and one of the latter, whenI asked for souvenir postal cards to send to friends,could only produce views of Jerusalem! In theChinese shops you can find the pretty silken scarfsthat the women wear, made in China especially for thisCentral American trade, and most becoming they are,framing the dark oval faces in their soft silky folds. It was at vespers that, toward twilight that after-noon, we saw them to their best advantage. Thechurch interior, spacious and airy, is painted pinkand pale water-green, and against this background,like bouquets of soft flowers, nodded these scarf-covered heads, coral and violet, lavender and pale-blue, heliotrope and white. As night came on, thewomen trooped away out under the golden bambooarc
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