India impressions, with some notes of Ceylon during a winter tour, 1906-7 [microform] . ition and who had any conversation. Driving through the city we had recourse tosmelling-bottles, as owing to the open drains eachside the streets the odours which saluted our nostrilswere rather trying. I had noticed these opengulleys at Delhi and in the native quarters in othertowns. They run close in front of the houses andopen shops of the bazaars, and are crossed by slabsof stone placed across them at intervals to giveaccess to the houses, and as all sorts of refuse findsits way into them it is not surp
India impressions, with some notes of Ceylon during a winter tour, 1906-7 [microform] . ition and who had any conversation. Driving through the city we had recourse tosmelling-bottles, as owing to the open drains eachside the streets the odours which saluted our nostrilswere rather trying. I had noticed these opengulleys at Delhi and in the native quarters in othertowns. They run close in front of the houses andopen shops of the bazaars, and are crossed by slabsof stone placed across them at intervals to giveaccess to the houses, and as all sorts of refuse findsits way into them it is not surprising they should beoffensive sometimes, though it had not been nearlyso noticeable elsewhere. Amritzar is said to havethe benefit of the advice of an English sanitaryengineer. The street did not strike us as so varied and AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 165 interestine as other cities we had seen, and thehouse fronts seemed plainer and more modern, asa rule, though the streets were narrow enough. From a sort of terrace we got our first view ofthe Golden Temple, which is built in the centre of. THROUGH AMRITZAR—SIT TIGHT AND HOLD A SMELLING BOTTLE the large tank or lake in the centre of the city. Abroad paved causeway connects with the pavedwalk along- two sides of the lake. After the magnifi-cent and beautifully proportioned Mogul architec-ture of Agra and Delhi, the Golden Temple,built at the beginning of the nineteenth centuryis rather disappointing, despite its gilded domes,the building looking rather squat, though the goldreflected in the rippling water has a charming gilded dome of the Atal tower also shows over 166 INDIA IMPRESSIONS thebuildings behind the templeseen from the our carriage at this spot we were sur-rounded and eyed by a curious crowd. Rivalguides apparently contended for us, and there wasa sudden quarrel, ending in a free fight, betweentwo of them, the end of which we did not remainto see. The temple and its precincts is held mostsacred b
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