A residence in Jutland, the Danish isles and Copenhagen . reclaimed; and she and her descendantsgrew rich, as the farms round Jerup testify even at thistime. After a delay of half an hour a peasant agreesto furnish us with two carriages—a low sort of stuhl-wagen, not on springs, but by no means rough, drawnby two horses—and bring us back to-morrow, for thesum of seven dollars each; waggons to come strax—immediately. Now, if there be a detestable word inthe Danish language it is strax; it always signifiesany space of time, beyond the endurance of humanpatience and resignation. At the end of two
A residence in Jutland, the Danish isles and Copenhagen . reclaimed; and she and her descendantsgrew rich, as the farms round Jerup testify even at thistime. After a delay of half an hour a peasant agreesto furnish us with two carriages—a low sort of stuhl-wagen, not on springs, but by no means rough, drawnby two horses—and bring us back to-morrow, for thesum of seven dollars each; waggons to come strax—immediately. Now, if there be a detestable word inthe Danish language it is strax; it always signifiesany space of time, beyond the endurance of humanpatience and resignation. At the end of two hours theycome, a splendid pair of young chesnuts; they wouldnot disgrace Hyde Park; the blacks too are good ser-viceable beasts, though less showy. Horse-flesh im-proves as w^e go northwards. From the stables wedrive close to the sea-side, one wheel in the wateralong the hard sand. A terrible coast this; the veryshells are pounded into powder by the waves—all savethe pelicans-foot,* and that is strong enough to resist * S trombus pes I A A < •?i 35 !,Bl ;* II Chap. XXXVI. SKAGEN. 107 the wear and tear of wind or ocean, Pont oppidanpromised us sea-cats, sea-mice, and sea-wolves. Thispart of Jutland, as far as the village of Aalbaek, ismore densely populated by the peasant tribe than anywe have yet visited — gaards, farm-buildings, cattlein abundance; and then later we pass by a wreck—aship sunk among the shoals; dip into a quick-sand,and are dragged out again ; then drive by the manorof Lindholm, the most northern of all Jutland strongholds, in Queen Margarets time, of the noble house ofBugge. Twilight comes on ; the lighthouse of Skagenis faintly visible on the horizon. We drive now inland—brown moor, relieved by shining sand, and dunesglistening in the evening shades like snow. Pass byold Skagen church-tower, half buried beneath a waste—boats on the shore, nets hung to dry. We enterthe village, or rather settlement, toil our way throughthe
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