. In & around the Grand Canyon; the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River in Arizona . the great templesof the Nile and the wonderful ruins of vast struc-tures found elsewhere in the world, but where hasman ever contrived and erected dwellino^s betweenwalls of rich red sandstone, formed of layers so per-fectly and harmoniously placed that they appearas if laid by a master mason, and that tower intothe pure cobalt sky, two thousand feet and moreabove ? A sensitive soul is ever awed, a petty souldwarfed, and a religious soul elevated by contempla-tion of them, I was invited to share Toms ha-wa, but
. In & around the Grand Canyon; the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River in Arizona . the great templesof the Nile and the wonderful ruins of vast struc-tures found elsewhere in the world, but where hasman ever contrived and erected dwellino^s betweenwalls of rich red sandstone, formed of layers so per-fectly and harmoniously placed that they appearas if laid by a master mason, and that tower intothe pure cobalt sky, two thousand feet and moreabove ? A sensitive soul is ever awed, a petty souldwarfed, and a religious soul elevated by contempla-tion of them, I was invited to share Toms ha-wa, but when Ifound that in that one hut not only his own family,— himself, wife and several sons and dausrhters,—but also a number of relations, male and female,were also to be accommodated, I declined the offeredhospitality with thanks. 28o IN AND AROUND Next morning saw the beginning of my studiesof the Havasupais, which have afforded me muchpleasure and gratification ever since. Not faraway was an aged and almost helpless old man,perfectly nude, struggling under a wicker frame. To-HOL-wou which his daughter covered over with blankets. Abasket holding water was placed inside, and everyfew minutes she thrust hot rocks under the blan-ket. Before long the old man was sweating vigor-ously, but he remained in the to-hol-woh for fullytwenty minutes longer. Then, hastily casting asidethe blankets, the woman poured two or three largeollas-fuU of cold water over her helpless parent, afterwhich she wrapped him up in one of the blanketsand left him to dry in the sun. THE GRAND CANYON 281 This primitive Russo-Turkish bath is largelyused by the Havasupais, and I have seen a scoreof men after taking it dash into the deep pools of thecreek, bathe for half an hour or more, and then stretchout and enjoy the warmth of the sun. A couple ofweeks ago (August, 1899) I was invited by someof my Havasupai friends to enjoy To-hol-woh withthem. The ground inside the wicker frame wasneatly covered
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