. History of lace. same lace-workers only made half an ell (24 inches) in a ^ In the already quoted ^tat dun valued at 200 li\Tes the pair. Du Trousseau, 1771, among the necessary Barry, more extravagant, gives 770 articles are enumerated : Une coef- for hers. fure, tour de gorge et le fichu plisse ^ 2 barbes et rayon de vraie valen- de ^T:aie Valencienne. The trimming cienne ; 3 au. 3/4 collet grande hauteur; of one of Madame du Barrys pillow- 4 au. grand jabot; le tout de la meme cases cost 487 fr. ; her lappets, 1,030. main, de 2,400 li:es.—Comjptes de The ruffles of the Duchesse


. History of lace. same lace-workers only made half an ell (24 inches) in a ^ In the already quoted ^tat dun valued at 200 li\Tes the pair. Du Trousseau, 1771, among the necessary Barry, more extravagant, gives 770 articles are enumerated : Une coef- for hers. fure, tour de gorge et le fichu plisse ^ 2 barbes et rayon de vraie valen- de ^T:aie Valencienne. The trimming cienne ; 3 au. 3/4 collet grande hauteur; of one of Madame du Barrys pillow- 4 au. grand jabot; le tout de la meme cases cost 487 fr. ; her lappets, 1,030. main, de 2,400 li:es.—Comjptes de The ruffles of the Duchesse de Modene Madame du Barry. Mademoiselle de CharoUais are 234 HISTORY OF LACE year, and it took ten months, working fifteen hours a day,to finish a pair of mens ruffles—hence the costliness of theIace.^° A pair of ruffles would amount to 4,000 livres, andthe barbes pleines, ^^ as a ladys cap was then termed, to1,200 livres and upwards. Tlie Valenciennes of 1780 was of a quality far superior Fig. Valenciennes. to any made in the present century. The reseau was fineand compact, the flower resembling cambric in its texture ;the designs still betraying the Flemish origin of thefabric—tulips, carnations, iris, or anemones—such as we Arthur Young, in 1788, says ofYalenciennes: Laces of 30 to 40lines breadth for gentlemens rufflesis from 160 to 216 li\Tes (£*9 9s.) anell. The quantity for a ladys head-dress from 1,000 to 24,000 livres. Thewomen gain from 20 to 30 sous a ,600 persons are employed at VaJen-ciennes, and are an object of 450,000livres, of which the flax is not more than 1/30. The thread costs from 24to 700 livres the pound. The barbes pleines consistedof a pair of lappets from 3 to 5 incheswide each, and half an ell (20 inches)long, with a double pattern of spriggedflowers and rounded at the ends. Anarrow lace 1^ ell long, called the Fa-piUon, with the bande or passe, andthe fond de bonnet, completed the suit. Fig. 108.


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, booksubjectlaceand, bookyear1902