. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography SHORELINE. Fig. 1. Definition of variables. period, nor was even one rip current observed anywhere in the study area. The current velocity was measured by timing the movement of the centers of patches of fluorescent dye as they moved parallel to shore in or close to the zone of maximum flow. Three dye patches were timed by stopwatch over a 15- or 30-meter course, depending on the pre- vailing velocity of flow. A mean travel time was determined for t
. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography SHORELINE. Fig. 1. Definition of variables. period, nor was even one rip current observed anywhere in the study area. The current velocity was measured by timing the movement of the centers of patches of fluorescent dye as they moved parallel to shore in or close to the zone of maximum flow. Three dye patches were timed by stopwatch over a 15- or 30-meter course, depending on the pre- vailing velocity of flow. A mean travel time was determined for the three satisfactory trials. Nearly all the dye charges were introduced at the inshore margin of the breaker line closest to shore. The center of each dye patch had to remain coherent for a given trial to be judged Symbol TABLE 1. Variables Screened in Development of Emprical Predictor Equations Description Range in Values Probable Error i Hi Mean height of breaking waves Ht, Height of significant breaking waves lb Mean crest length of breaking waves m Mean slope of foreshore Tb Mean period of breaking waves V Mean longshore current velocity z Mean trough to bottom distance in front of a breaking wave Sb Mean acute angle between shore- line and crest of breaking wave m ± m, low waves; zbO. 12 m, high waves m ± m, low waves; ± m, high waves m Within 10%, at best °° ±° sec ± sec m/sec ± m/sec m ± m °° ±°, for a given breaker. Please note that these images are extracted from scanned page images that may have been digitally enhanced for readability - coloration and appearance of these illustrations may not perfectly resemble the original Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories; Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories; United States. Environmental Science Services Administration. Research Laboratories; Environmental Research Laboratories (U.
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