. Dalmatia : the Quarnero and Istria with Cettigne in Montenegro and the Island of Grado. the styleof the early renaissance. Over the door, which isprettily carved, is the suggestive motto debile PRINCIPIVM MELIOR FORTVNA SEQVETVR. The wall of the church is marked with incised crosses, andan inscription records its restoration in 1867 injuriatemporum pene collapsa. A large ruined building adjoins, apparently aconvent at one tmie, with the date mdclvii overthe door. The view of Arbe from this grassy meadow canhardly be surpassed for loveliness. The cliff onwhich it stands descends sharply into
. Dalmatia : the Quarnero and Istria with Cettigne in Montenegro and the Island of Grado. the styleof the early renaissance. Over the door, which isprettily carved, is the suggestive motto debile PRINCIPIVM MELIOR FORTVNA SEQVETVR. The wall of the church is marked with incised crosses, andan inscription records its restoration in 1867 injuriatemporum pene collapsa. A large ruined building adjoins, apparently aconvent at one tmie, with the date mdclvii overthe door. The view of Arbe from this grassy meadow canhardly be surpassed for loveliness. The cliff onwhich it stands descends sharply into the sea, andis studded with aloes and such scanty vegetation Ch. XXVIII.] Arde. 237 \ as can cling to the face of the rock or find holdfor its roots in the crevices. The old town wallsthat crown the cliff seem to grow out of it, so thatit is hard to say where art begins to supersedenature, while above them the four ancient campanilesrise in stately order. As Ave sat to take our farewellview the sun was setting behind us, and the towersand walls melted from creamy white to orange, and. Fig. loi. from orange almost to flame colour. The sea laylike a sheet of glass below without even a rippleon the shore, and the long rocky islands of Dolinand Pago changed, as do all these naked Dalmatianhills, to the most exquisite colours under the eveninglight. From the cliffs below ascended at intervalsthe song of the passere solitario, with a melodious 238 Pago. [Ch. XXVIII. and sustained strain not unlike that of the night-ingale. The beautiful scenery, the strange oldmediaeval town, seeming more a memory than areality, and the delicious bird-notes rising out ofthe stillness made a pathetic impression that cannotbe easily described. Of all Dalmatian towns thereis none to my taste so lovely as poor plague-strickenArbe. The scenery of the Quarnero loses nothing ingrandeur towards its southern end ; there are thesame wild mountains, and the precipices descendinto the water as abruptly as in the
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