The palaces of Crete and their builders . ofliterature, and of the arts was the secular spirit, and the absenceof that superstitious formahsm of the sacerdotal caste who kepta firm hold on the most ancient societies of the East. XII. Monastery of S. George in Phalandra, Af^y, 1906. On the road by which I return from the excavations I stopto look at the ruins of the Monastery of S. George (Fig. 91).Over the grey sky pass threatening clouds, and at sunset the Odyssey, viii.,266 : deicfw a^iip^ Xpioi; (piXuDjTor liryrerjxhoi t A(ppocirii(;. 2o8 PALACES OF CRETE AXD THEIR BUILDERS glorious sun lig


The palaces of Crete and their builders . ofliterature, and of the arts was the secular spirit, and the absenceof that superstitious formahsm of the sacerdotal caste who kepta firm hold on the most ancient societies of the East. XII. Monastery of S. George in Phalandra, Af^y, 1906. On the road by which I return from the excavations I stopto look at the ruins of the Monastery of S. George (Fig. 91).Over the grey sky pass threatening clouds, and at sunset the Odyssey, viii.,266 : deicfw a^iip^ Xpioi; (piXuDjTor liryrerjxhoi t A(ppocirii(;. 2o8 PALACES OF CRETE AXD THEIR BUILDERS glorious sun lights up the ruins and sprinkles them with gold-dust. The ruins stand forth in greater majesty against thedarkness of the shadows. A new life awakes in the walls likea vision—the sacred apotheosis of the past. In front of theconvent the ground is covered with yellow marguerites, whichbloom among the stones and enclose the ruins in a poetic the left some fig trees with their dense foliage wrap thebelfry and porch in shade. -^^^^i. FIG. 91.—MONASTERY OF S. GEORGE OX THE HILL OF PH^STOS. The Cretans come from a distance to carry off the carvedstone cornices with pure fifteenth-century mouldings to place ontheir window sills or round the doors. The church is still pre-served by the strong construction of the vaulting, and round thechurch are the convent cells with elegant architraves. On thewall I saw a drawing representing a trireme, and I copied itin my pocket book, for it is a record of Venice which willsoon disappear. MYTHS AND RELIGIONS OF CRETE 209 In front of and inside the church the graves of the monksare covered by great slabs of marble with rosettes at the tombs at the side of the church are uncovered (Fig. 92), andon the greater is a coat of arms. A skull, bleached white, lieswithin the marble urn, and from the empty eye-sockets the fixedand mysterious glance of death throws contempt on the vanity ofthe world.


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