Persia past and present; a book of travel and research, with more than two hundred illustrations and a map . e was, the hand oflittle employment hath the daintier sense ; the other, thusbad begins, but worse remains behind — and worse did remainbehind. For part of the first day the route was through the exposedbed of a river filled with boulders of stone and blocks of we were sinking in the water, next plunging into a snow-bank, and again extricating the wagon from a deep mud on the side hills was nearly up to the hubs, so therewas no chance for progress with a vehicle there
Persia past and present; a book of travel and research, with more than two hundred illustrations and a map . e was, the hand oflittle employment hath the daintier sense ; the other, thusbad begins, but worse remains behind — and worse did remainbehind. For part of the first day the route was through the exposedbed of a river filled with boulders of stone and blocks of we were sinking in the water, next plunging into a snow-bank, and again extricating the wagon from a deep mud on the side hills was nearly up to the hubs, so therewas no chance for progress with a vehicle there ; neverthelessI was glad to climb up on the heights for a while, and try walk-ing, in order to lighten the load for the struggling horses below. At distant intervals along the trail there were mud cabinswhich served as tea-houses (^oJidi khdnaK). These gave a wel-come excuse for a halt and refreshment. The tea was good,but dirt was plentiful, yet I soon began to be accustomed tothat, for the descent to Avernus is easy. The delays in gettingstarted again were exasperating, and I had to keep incessantly. fc-ittS^-. K£ Mountain Village bukied in Snow between Mauand and Sofian MISHAPS ON THE WAY 35 urging, scolding, begging, and bribing the driver to make hastein order to reach Marand that night. The device of the bribeproved the more effective, and resulted in a series of lashes,plied savagely upon the tired horses and accompanied by asuccession of encouraging shouts, whistles, grunts, cries,squeals, yells, and chirrups, infinite in variety, but of endlessweariness, and alternating with the humming of a tune whichmight have been the Turkish equivalent of that of which theold cow died. We managed to keep fairly well in the caravan trail (I can-not call it a road), but once in the darkness we lost it, and aviolent collision with a telegraph pole was the result. Fortu-nately only the harness was broken, not our bones. Aftermaking repairs we proceeded tolerably until the village of
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