. The Canadian horticulturist. Fruit Growers' Association of Ontario; Fruit-culture. The Canadian Horticulturist. 377. F, at lower end. As it stands it indicate a slant of 2^ inches per 3 feet. If outside edge is made perfectly square, you may use it as an horizontal level and as a square also. Fig. 702. Fig. 702 represents a level something like Fig. 700, only two of the up- rights B at right hand of illustration are 2 ft. longer which allows the plumb bob to swing much further at one end so you may guage a much steeper grade. The illustration shows a slant of 5^ feet per 10 feet. The longer


. The Canadian horticulturist. Fruit Growers' Association of Ontario; Fruit-culture. The Canadian Horticulturist. 377. F, at lower end. As it stands it indicate a slant of 2^ inches per 3 feet. If outside edge is made perfectly square, you may use it as an horizontal level and as a square also. Fig. 702. Fig. 702 represents a level something like Fig. 700, only two of the up- rights B at right hand of illustration are 2 ft. longer which allows the plumb bob to swing much further at one end so you may guage a much steeper grade. The illustration shows a slant of 5^ feet per 10 feet. The longer you make the uprights B the more spare you have for marking the inches on F. UnfePmented Wine.—Take perfectly ripe native grapes, pick from stems, discard all imperfect berries. Mash slightly (not mash seed), press out the juice by any of the known methods and separate the juice from the pulps by straining through coarse cloths, or otherwise. Then add \x/z lbs. white sugar to each gallon of must or juice. Boil in a copper or brass kettle for 40 minutes, then remove from fire and filter again so as to remove all sediment. Filtering paper kept by druggists is best to filter through. The filtering is slow but perfect. After filtering and when juice is cool, put in strong bottles, cork and wire similai to pop soda. A cool cellar where the temperature is regular and does not freeze in winter is the best place to keep wines.—Farm and Home. The Time to Plant Evergreens. — Evergreens differ from deciduous trees in the fact that there is no time of year when they are not evaporating a considerable amount of water through their foliage. But this evaporation is greater at some times than at others, the largest amount being from the new growth in early spring and summer. As a consequence of this evaporation there is unusual call upon the roots for moisture. If the soil is warm and moist new roots put out rapidly. At the beginning of the new growth, or a little before, it is therefore


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