. The gateway to the Sahara; observations and experiences in Tripoli. Hischildrens children live here now, but we cannotenter, for the women are there, and these peoplelike not the Christians. Some years ago therewas a great explosion in this fortification wherethe powder was stored, the walls of the wholetown were shaken, part of this fortress wasbroken in many places, houses fell and peopledied, but these fell not. As we reached the Bab-el-Bahah, El-Ouachipointed his lean, henna-stained finger in thedirection of the remains of the Mole. ^Beyond the Molehead, Arfi, the tradition of mypeople s
. The gateway to the Sahara; observations and experiences in Tripoli. Hischildrens children live here now, but we cannotenter, for the women are there, and these peoplelike not the Christians. Some years ago therewas a great explosion in this fortification wherethe powder was stored, the walls of the wholetown were shaken, part of this fortress wasbroken in many places, houses fell and peopledied, but these fell not. As we reached the Bab-el-Bahah, El-Ouachipointed his lean, henna-stained finger in thedirection of the remains of the Mole. ^Beyond the Molehead, Arfi, the tradition of mypeople says, the wreck of the big American corsairlies. * Following this clue, early the next morning,July 12, before the usual forenoon breeze could * On my return to the United States I investigated the originaldata relating to the capture and burning of the Philadelphia, andfurther corroborated the Arab tradition from original and officialsources; from the reports of Commodore Preble, who issued theorders to destroy the frigate; Lieutenant Decatur and Midshipman [114]. THE FRIGATE PHILADELPHIA blur the glassy surface of the harbor, I was atthe sailors coffee-house near the boat buildersways, where by arrangement I met Riley, , an English missionary, and a Maltesefisherman. Equipped with grapples, lines, and amaria [a bucket with a glass bottom] we seatedourselves on the dirty thwarts of the clumsycraft, and were pulled to the vicinity where Arabtradition said the wreck of the frigate lay. Usingthe maria, for a light breeze had ruflSed the placidsurface of the water, the boat was rowed slowlyover the ground, describing large spirals, as fromtime to time we set new starting-points. As Ieagerly gazed through the clear glass into thetransparent depths, all the wonders of a seagarden passed beneath me; dark violet spots ofragged rocks lost themselves in patches of lightsea-green sand, which threw into stronger reliefan occasional shell-fish or schools of delicatelittle sea-hor
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